Ascent to Peak Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity by the AUSB "Shkhelda" team led by M.E. Danilchik as part of the AUSB Championship and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO trade unions in 1989.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Object: Peak Chatyn Main via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity (4368 m)
4. Route characteristics: | Route elevation gain | 795 m. | | :--------------------------------------: | :----: | | Route length | 950 m. | | Length of the "diamond" wall | 435 m. |

1. Climbing class — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:

• I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category

ascending to the summit of CHEGET-KARA-BASHI (traverse with ascent along the north-eastern ridge and descent via route category II difficulty) The first ascent of the route was made in the 1974 season by a group of instructors from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp led by V.N. Lukinov. In the 1975 season, the ascent was repeated by a group of instructors from the same camp consisting of:

• 1. Presnov V.A., 2nd category, leader
• 2. Maerkovich V.V., Master of Sports
• 3. Zhukov S.Ya., 1st category
• 4. Kruglov E.M., 1st category
• 5. Stepanov V.N., 1st category
• 6. Silin B.M., 1st category
• 7. Razumov Yu.A., 1st category

1. Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
2. Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
4. Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
5. Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
6. Number of walking hours: 10.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
8. Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: rock
2. ASCENT AREA: Main Caucasus Range, Northern spur of Ullukara.
3. ASCENT ROUTE WITH INDICATION OF PEAKS AND THEIR HEIGHTS: v. Cheget-Kara – 3667 m, via the left Southeast buttress.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 4A cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference: 850–900 m, average slope – 45°, length of complex section – 240 m.
6. NUMBER OF PITO NS INSTALLED: rock – 12, ice –
7. NUMBER OF TRAVELING HOURS: 7 hours.
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS: –
9. FULL NAME OF LEADER, PARTICIPANTS, AND THEIR QUALIFICATION:

239

REPORT

On the ascent to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern counterfort from August 2 to 4, 1972, approximately category 4B difficulty, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

1. Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From the Dzhatugan alpine camp, follow the road along the Adylsu valley. After 300 m, turn right across the river via a temporary bridge onto the Koshey clearing. Then, follow the trail up to the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier and along its ridge to a large rock — 1 hour. From here, turn left and ascend via a steep trail to the Turii Lakes — 40 minutes — the location of the initial bivouac.

2. Geographical Information

Cheget-Kara-Bashi — 3667 m — is the outermost peak of the northern spur of Ullu-Kara. To the east of the peak lies the Bashkara glacier, and beneath the western slopes — a small Cheget-Kara glacier with Turii Lake beneath it — a bivouac site. Several routes to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak have been established, ranging from category 2B to 4A difficulty. The area around the peak is considered well-explored by climbers; ascent routes are popular among alpine camps in the region. The northwestern counterfort of the peak was first ascended in July 1970 by a group of instructors from the "Elbrus" alpine camp led by N. Korzhov, who rated it category 4B difficulty. This route has become popular among sports groups due to its:

• logical progression,
• safety,

138. Chegetkara via the South-Eastern counterfort (B. Garf's itinerary, category IV).

4. Climbing description

for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B. “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A. Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.” Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.

1. Summit, its height — peak XIV съезда ВЛКСМ, 3465 m
2. Ascent route — south-eastern edge from the cirque of Sakashil glacier.
3. Proposed complexity category — 3B
4. Route characteristic: rocky, height difference — 350 m, average steepness 55°.
5. Pitons driven: rock — II pcs.
6. Number of travel hours: a) Tyrnyauz — bivouac — 6 h; b) bivouac — summit — 6 h
7. Number of overnight stays — one overnight stay at a bivouac at the Small Lake on the terminal moraine of Sakashil glacier.
8. Leader: EFREMOV Vladimir Vasilievich, 1st sports category Participants:

• Galyamov Shagimul Magadovich — 1st sports category

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Kullumkol

VIA THE ROUTE "NORTH-WESTERN SLOPE" CAT. 3B BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF THE ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" ON AUGUST 1, 2022 St. Petersburg 2022

I. Ascent Passport