- Climbing class — rock climbing
- Climbing area — Sakashilsky
- Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
- Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
- Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
- Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
- Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
- Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category
Participants:
- I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category
- A.V. Bezrodny — 1st sports category
Observers:
- V.S. Miguzov — 2nd sports category
- E.I. Borshcheva — 2nd sports category
- Team coach — Yu.I. Porokhnya
- Date of departure — October 25, 1980 Date of return — October 26, 1980
Information on reconnaissance
The group participants climbed Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM via:
- South-west ridge — route 2B category difficulty
- South-east edge — route 3A category difficulty.
The route was planned and observed during those climbs.
Description of the approach to the route
From Tyrnyauz town, ascend by road to the Kayarta river. Then:
- The road turns into a trail, follow it to the first koshi.
- Cross the Sakashil river.
- Follow the trail along the right bank to a large clearing near the Sakashil glacier moraine.
This is a good bivouac site. You can ascend the moraine to a small lake near the glacier and set up a bivouac. From Tyrnyauz 4.5–5 hours.
Route description
From the bivouac, descend from the moraine and approach the not clearly defined couloir of the South wall via large scree. Upwards through simple steep large-block rocks for 80 m. You can move simultaneously, throwing the rope over ledges.
Approach a 30-meter rock wall. The lower part has many good reliable handholds. There are cracks for pitons. The upper part is a slab, climbed with piton protection. Steepness approximately 55°. Then 50 m of moderately difficult rocks follow. The rocks are clean and easy to climb. They are followed by an internal corner about 40 m. Climb with careful protection via pitons. The internal corner leads to a small balcony, 3 hours from the start of the route. Control cairn.
Beyond the balcony, a short 15 m wall begins, it has several possible routes, gradually becomes less steep and turns into simple rocks with many ledges. Ascend the rocks for 80 m to the pre-summit rise. Loose rocks! The pre-summit rise is quite steep – 60°, but is easy to climb, large-block rocks. The rise leads to the summit. 3 hours from the control cairn.
Descent from the summit via route 2B category difficulty.
Debriefing protocol
First ascent of the group of climbers from the Kabardino-Balkarian council of the Spartak sports society to Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM via the South wall, approximately 3B category difficulty. October 26, 1980. Debriefing conducted by senior instructor A.V. Porokhnya. Present: the group in full:
- N.V. Zimin
- I.I. Khachuev
- A.V. Bezrodny
Release instructor: A.V. Porokhnya Interaction group:
- A.N. Usov
- A.M. Gorodnichev
- G.I. Nechiporenko
Observers: E.I. Borshcheva, V.S. Miguzov Team leader N.V. Zimin: the first ascent route was planned in advance. It was carefully observed. We were convinced of the absence of rockfall danger.
On October 25, the group approached the bivouac near the lake. The weather was excellent, we arrived quickly. We rested well in the evening.
October 26:
- Wake-up at 4:00
- Departed at 5:00
- Arrived at the start of the route at 6:30
- Observed the route for 30 minutes
- Reassessed the difficult sections and tactics
Formed a rope team: Bezrodny — Zimin — Khachuev. Moved simultaneously on the first part of the route, Bezrodny led the wall, hammered in 4 pitons. There were no particular complications further. The internal corner was interesting, it was longer than expected.
I would like to note the reliability with which the group climbed this section. We reached the summit at 13:00. Found a note from a previous group (leader — A.N. Usov), which waited for us on the summit. The weather was good and clear throughout.
Descended together via route 2B category difficulty. The route is very interesting and logical. Its value lies in the fact that it can be climbed in spring and autumn, i.e., during the off-season. However, it should be noted that if there is snow or ice on the route, it becomes much more complicated. No complaints about the participants. I assess the route as 3B category difficulty.
Participants:
- Khachuev — liked the route, clean, warm rocks. Quite a few technical climbing elements. No complaints about the leader.
- Bezrodny — would like to highlight the great potential of this area for training climbers at the initial stages.
Release instructor:
- Porokhnya — is the route safe from rockfall?
Zimin — during observation and ascent, we did not notice anything suspicious.
A.V. Porokhnya — consider the ascent and leadership by Zimin to be valid. Agree with the assessment of the route as 3B category difficulty.
Protocol recorded by: G. Nechiporenko. Debriefing conducted by: A.V. Porokhnya.
Upper part of the route.
Internal corner section.
Upper part of the internal corner.