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Route Description: ЮЗ склону с л. Москвина

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
glacier travelmixed climbingroute assessmenthigh altitude mountaineeringexpeditionfirst ascent

The first ascent of Peak "Chetyrekh" (6380 m) via the northwest ridge in the Pamir Mountains in 1961 by a group of mountaineers from Moscow and Leningrad.

Team Composition

  1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
  2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
  3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
  4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.

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Route Description: из ущ. Аю-Джилга

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingroute assessmenttrip reportrope workexpeditionfirst ascent

First ascent of Peak Yakir (6231 m) by its southwest ridge from the Apdжилга valley in the Central Памир, made by Leningrad mountaineers in July 1966.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 6231 m via the south-west edge from the Ayudzhilga valley on the Central Pamir, made by alpinists from Leningrad's “SPARTAK” on July 27–30, 1966. The summit was named: “Peak YAKIR”

Team Leader(KORKIN I. V.)
Coach(KOLCHIN A.A.)
In the summer of 1966, Leningrad alpinists from the Spartak sports society went on an expedition to the Central Pamir to climb peaks in the unexplored Ayudzhilga river valley - a left tributary of the Muksu river. The first team of the expedition traversed the peaks of Pik Voroshilov - Pik Evgenia Korzhenevskoi, participating in the 1966 USSR championship.
The second team, consisting of alpinists with 1st and 2nd sports categories, made several first ascents to unnamed peaks surrounding the Ayudzhilga glacier cirque during the same period.
Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Great October Revolution, the alpinists decided to name the newly conquered peaks after prominent commanders of the Red Army: Tukhachevsky, Blyukher, Yegorov, Yakir, and Uborevich. The peak with a height of 6231 m, described in this report, was named after Yakir.

Geography of the area and characteristics of the peaks

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Route Description: ЮЗ кф. с л. Медвежий

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingpitonsroute assessmentmountaineeringtrip reportfirst ascent

### Description of the First Ascent to Peak 5000 m via the Southwest Counterfort #### Complexity Category: 4B Detailed analysis of the route and its technical characteristics.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class: technical ascents.
  2. Ascent area: 4.2.
  3. Ascent object and route: p. 5000 m via the southwest buttress from Medvezhiy Glacier.
  4. Estimated complexity category: 4B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m; average slope — 60°; length of sections by category: 1 — 0 m, 2 — 560 m, 3 — 440 m, 4 — 540 m, 5 — 330 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for anchors, etc. rock pitons 53, ice screws 9
  7. Total climbing hours: 15 hours.
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Route Description: треугольнику С стены

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingaid climbingtrip reportrope workexpeditionfirst ascent

Description of the first ascent of Peak "5145" in the Central Pamir via the "triangle" of the northern wall, category of difficulty 5B, made by a team of six climbers in 1979.

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, western spurs of the Academy of Sciences Range, in the upper reaches of the Krasnoarmeysky Glacier.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak "5145", first ascent, via the "triangle" of the north face.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1147 m, average steepness — 68°
  6. Number of pitons: rock 169, ice 39, bolted 0.
  7. Number of climbing hours: 53 hours.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 5 bivouacs, including 4 lying and 1 sitting, all in tents.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader and participants, their sports qualification:
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Route Description: СВ ребру с л. Калинина

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbinganchor buildinghigh altitude mountaineeringtrip reportexpeditionfirst ascent

Report on the first ascent of Peak 5570 via the Northeast Wall, accomplished by a group from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in 1972.

Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak "5570" via the NE wall. Alma-Ata 1972 From July 28 to August 2, 1972, a group from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society consisting of:

    1. G. A. Petrashko — Master of Sports, leader
    1. G. A. Beloborodov — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
    1. V. P. Parfenov — Candidate for Master of Sports
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Route Description: С ребру

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
crevassesmixed climbingmountaineeringtrip reportsummitexpedition

Ascent to Peak 5585 m via the north edge from the Maly Tanymass valley, route reconnaissance and description of the ascent by an Odessa mountaineering group.

Ascent

to Peak 5585 via the northern edge from the Maly Tanymas Valley (Central Pamir, Mazarskiye Alps) Expedition of the Odessa Regional Council DSO "Avangard" Ascent leader — Staritsky P. I. 2. Vlasenko A. 3. Orobei I. 4. Eremenkov. 5. Novoselov E. 6. Kolomeytseva V.

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Route Description: С гребню

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingroute assessmentmountaineeringhigh altitude mountaineeringtrip reportfirst ascent

First ascent of Peak "5826 m" in the Maly Tanymas valley in the northwestern Pamir, 3B category route.

Peak 5826 meters. NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR. MALY TANIMAS VALLEY. FIRST ASCENT. 1967. Sports group of the Odessa DSO "Avangard". Ascent leader V. Nelupov. Odessa. 1969. Peak "5826 m" is located in one of the ridges formed by the peaks:

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Route Description: через плечо п. Калинина

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingaid climbingmountaineeringhigh altitude mountaineeringtrip reportexpedition

Description of the ascent route to Peak 6431 via the NW wall from the Ayu-Jilga glacier, category 6, 2130 m height difference, 2685 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
  3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 6431, via NW wall (from Ayu-Jilga glacier)
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
    • Rocky part of the route — 1850 m
    • Snow-ice part of the route — 280 m
    • Total height difference of the route — 2130 m
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Route Description: С стене

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingaid climbingapproach logisticsbivouacsmountaineeringtrip report

Ascent to Peak 4983 via the North Face: Category 5B route, height difference 950 m, average steepness 70–75 degrees.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western peak p. 4983 (Peak Belorussian Partisans) via the North face
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m, average steepness — 70–75°
  6. Pitons driven: For belaying: a) rock — 148 b) ice — 9
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Route Description: ЮВ гребню

SummitMateSSummitMate
•21 days ago
mixed climbingprotection placementroute assessmentmountaineeringtrip reportfirst ascent

Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.

2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

  1. Ascent category: combined
  2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 900 m
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