Report

On the First Ascent to Peak 5215 m (Soviet Badakhshan Peak) via the West Face in the Southwestern Pamir by the team from the Kharkov Regional Sport Committee:

• BERSHOV S.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• BAKHTIGOZIN V.A. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• TKACHENKO V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR July 28 — August 7, 1975 KHARKOV

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. ASCENT CATEGORY — technical. 2. ASCENT REGION — South-West Pamir. 3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak 5100 m (STROITEL) via the Eastern ridge — Cat. 2B (approx.) pr413 dated 27/4-76.20saibog. 4. ASCENT DESCRIPTION: elevation gain — 1600 m, average slope — 45°, length of difficult sections — ~60 m 5. PITS INSERTED: rock — 7. ice — 6. MOVING TIME: 7 h. 7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS ON THE ROUTE: none.

Kharkov Regional Sports Committee Collection 1986

First Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of peak Tri Bashni via the NW wall, category 5B difficulty (first ascent) by the team of Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team leader: Tanets A.A., Rybchenko V.D. Team coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003, Kharkov, Dvorets Truda, Kharkov Oblast Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society. 310121, Kharkov, ul. Geroyev Truda, 68 A, apt. 34. Tanets A.A. 310023, Kharkov, vyezd Krasnogo Studen-chestva, 8. Artemenko G.P. Heights were determined using a map and visually.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascent: first ascent
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge
3. Peak, height, route: p. Tri Bashni, 5527 m, via N wall, category 3
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 1300 m, height difference of the wall section — 450 m length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 525 m, length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 50 m, average steepness of the wall section — 78°
6. Pitons used: rock bolts stoppers ice 51 (6) 88 (5) 2 (1) 12 (4)

27

Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.

I. Class of ascent: first ascent 2. Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley 3. Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72° 6. Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5 7. Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7. 8. Bivouacs: 1st - sit­ting in a tent, 2nd - ly­ing in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sit­ting in a tent, plat­form laid on an in­clined shelf, 4th, 5th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled in the snow un­der the over­hang of the I 7th bas­tion, 6th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled on a snow ridge

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Region — Pamir, Ishkashimsky Range.
3. Shater, 5568, center of the NW wall.
4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1318 m, length — 1680 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty — 920 m. Average steepness of the main part of the wall — 82°, average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 73°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 405/197 bolts: 160/6 chocks: 352/174 ice screws: 19

Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship

on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object

Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:

2.4.1748

I. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE OF THE PEAKS PIK KILAR "FIZKULTURNIC STALIN" - KAYARTA-BASHI 3A cat. diff. The first ascent of the route was made on May 14, 1961, by a group of climbers from Tyrnyauz, consisting of:

1. Shamaev I.A. - leader
2. Fatakhov Kh.A.
3. Drobot S.Yu. The group assessed the route to Pik Kilar from the North Karata-Mu glacier (via the "Shakhtyor" pass) as 1B cat. diff.

Route Description

Day 1 - approach. From Tyrnyauz, ascend the gorge to the fork of the Sakashil-Su and Kayarta-Su rivers; before descending to the suspension bridge over the Kayarta-Su, turn right-up along a well-developed pack trail - into the Kayarta-Su gorge. After 0.5 hours and 40 minutes of walking, the trail leads to a small clearing with tall grass and a large stone, and soon exits to meadows near the summer pastures. From the clearing, another 200-300 meters of trail goes through the forest, then exits to meadows, onto a small grassy ridge (with an irrigation ditch along it). Further along the trail, along a stream, through meadows, ascending low grassy hills, we approach the river. Passing small clearings with a stream, we ascend along the cliff above the riverbank and exit to the point where the gorge turns. The gorge turns almost 90° to the left (southeast). Before reaching the river bend, at the beginning of a steep, overgrown with rhododendrons cape on the opposite bank, cross the river where a convenient ascent to the cape is visible. Ascending to the cape, the trail goes along a wide terrace along the high, steep riverbank. Overcoming a small stony ridge, we descend to a large grassy area with a stream.