I. Class of ascent: first ascent

  1. Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley
  2. Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
  3. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat.
  4. Route characteristics:

height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72°

  1. Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5
  2. Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7.
  3. Bivouacs:

1st - sit­ting in a tent, 2nd - ly­ing in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sit­ting in a tent, plat­form laid on an in­clined shelf, 4th, 5th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled in the snow un­der the over­hang of the I 7th bas­tion, 6th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled on a snow ridge

  1. Par­ti­cipants: I. TANETS Ana­toly Alex­androvich
  2. PO­LYA­KOV­SKY Bo­ris Ma­rovich
  3. RNE­CHEN­KO Vla­dimir Dmi­trievich
  4. ERRYAK Vla­dimir Vla­dimiro­vich
  5. E. BKOZ Ale­xandr Fyo­dorovich. O. Coach: MS USSR, AR­TE­MEN­KO Gri­gory Pe­trovich. II. Out­put to the route:

Sum­mit: Re­turn to base camp:

July 12, 1986 July 18, 1986 July 19, 1986

Attached files

Sources

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