Zamok — 2. Geniush — Shcherbakov Route

Author: Igor Saveliev (SAVA) Foros Dnepropetrovsk Zamok Route Description "Chapa" ("Chapa" has no relation to Igor Chaplinsky, "sara" means "bolts" in Spanish). Approach the base of the couloir between the peaks Zamok and Mshatka. Ascend 20m up the couloir, on the right, there's a blue inscription (CHAPA max. 7A+). From the road to the start of the route — 5 min. All protection points are marked in blue. It's very easy to navigate, the route is constantly in view. Fig. 1 Route "Chapa" on Zamok peak The first three pitches have relatively solid rock, further on it gets worse, so be careful and cautious. Most loose rocks have been cleared. Many areas have been cleaned of grass and soil. The route was intended to be easier to climb, but it turned out to be more challenging due to the need to anchor to stronger rock. "CHAPA" can be climbed entirely free, but many sections can also be done with artificial aids (ITO), depending on the climbers' skill level. It's recommended to bring various gear:

• profiled sky-hooks

Crimea, Zamok. Description of the "Hod konem" route

We remind that in November 2006, the team "Extreme — Team" from Kharkov, consisting of Poltavets Evgeny and Sipavin Valentin, climbed a new route to the summit of Zamok in Crimea. The route passes through the central part of the main wall of the Zamok peak. It is located between the routes "Sokoliny" (to the right) and "First hod Fanika" (to the left). The peculiarity of the wall in this part is the presence of vegetation in the cracks, and the cracks are partially destroyed. If we compare "Hod konem" with other routes on Zamok, then:

• In terms of technical difficulties, it is similar to the "Cherez peshcheru" route
• In terms of the number of intermediate bolts, it resembles "Sokoliny"
• Overall, it is more tense than these routes The sections R1–R2 pass through a system of discontinuous cracks, making several turns. On the R6 section, the route connects with the route of Yu. Lishayev "Cherez sosnu, pravy" and along a long crack leads to a ledge, conditionally dividing the wall and the "roof". The exit through the "roof" was made by the classic path, coinciding and intersecting with the routes of I. Saveliev "Chapa-Chapa" and "Genius-Shcherbakova" and exiting along the gentle rocks of the "roof" to the summit. Only 2 intermediate bolt hangers were hammered during the passage of the route. Equipment of stations:
• Stations R1 and R6 are equipped with one bolt
• At stations R2, R4, R5, 2 bolt hangers "Kong" (stainless steel, L = 60 mm, D = 10 mm) are installed

Castle Rock — 7

Description prepared by: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrova Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route, 6A, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370 m — Crimea Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route Photo by: Alexey Osipov, 1999 We all climb and belay on rocks differently. And what is written in the "gray footnotes" should be considered. The "Sokoliny" route was first ascended 20 years ago in 1985 by Yuri Lishayov ("Fantik"). The line of the route beautifully and practically crosses the sheer

Castle — 9

Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa

Yuri Lishayev's route "through the cave" 6A, VII+, A2, 360 m

On November 17, Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Zhilin (Odessa) finished "repairing" Yuri Lishayev's ("Fantik") route "Through the cave". "...We did the main work three weeks ago, and this time we put the final touches. We did not alter the route, but only tried to restore it:

• Equipped reliable stations.
• Replaced some old drilled holes' pitons. Removed unnecessary ones.
• Cleaned the route from old pitons and chocks.

"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall

A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa). Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression. Alexander Lavrinenko Evgeny Poltavets

Object

Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea

Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif (Three Pines), 2B

This route name was chosen by the first ascenders, apparently, because its main part passes through three groups of pines, or maybe they got lost on this simple route — as if between three pines. The approach to the route starts at the same place as route №3, 50 m east of the "36–18" pillar of the old highway. First along the trail, and then simple rocks 100 m up and left to a long sloping terrace. Along it 150 m to the right to the base of the fourth counterfort. On sections R0–R1 and R1–R2, 80 m up simple rocks in the central part of the counterfort to a large shelf with a spreading oak tree. List:

• R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, I
• R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, I On section R2–R3 — 40 m up a long steep gully to a group of pines. This is the most difficult section of the route (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III).

Kilse — Burun — 5.

On the right side of the fourth buttress of the western part of the massif, beyond

The approach begins the same way as for routes #3 and #4, 50 m west of the road signpost "36/18". First, ascend via the trail, and then via simple rocks to a long terrace and proceed along it 150 m to the right under the central part of the fourth buttress. On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up the simple rocks of the central part of the buttress (it coincides with route #4) (R1–R2: 40 m, 50°, I). Further, the route passes slightly to the right of "Three Pines" ("Три сосны"). On section R2–R3 — ascend via a cleft turning into an internal corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, I). On section R3–R4 — first 10 m up a sheer cleft under an overhanging wall. It is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and then upwards through it (R3–R4: 20 m, 80°, IV; 20 m, 75°, III). On section R4–R5 — ascend via a bushy internal corner (R4–R5: 45 m, 70°, II). On section R5–R6 — ascend 45 m via an internal corner, which expands in places and turns into a chimney in its upper part, to exit onto the eastern shoulder of the buttress. From it, 10 m along a steep wall onto a terrace. The main part of the route ends here (R5–R6: 45 m, 70°, II; 10 m, 70°, III). Further (section R6–yaila) — exit onto the summit plateau via a gentle gully (R6–yaila: 200 m, 45°, no technical difficulties). The length of the main part of the route is 210 m. The ascent takes 3 hours.

Kilse-Burun — R1

On the left side of the third buttress of the western part of the massif («Lokomotiv»), category 3B (III, 260 m) (route by A. Brynza, 1990)

For the first time, this route was climbed by me along with students of the Dnipropetrovsk National University of Railway Transport, where I work. By right! img-0.jpeg As pioneers, we named it «Lokomotiv». A characteristic feature of the route is that in its lower part, it passes through a section of the wall covered with ivy, which is why it is sometimes called «Plyushch» («Ivy»). The approach to the route from the road starts at the end of the long zigzag road. From there, the road continues straight along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. Initially, follow the path to a small, separately protruding rock used for training. By passing the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to a wide internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses of the western part of the massif (R0: 250 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the steep internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses. First, 30 m up its right part, and then 10 m up and to the right under the wall overgrown with ivy (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, III). On the R2–R4 section — up and to the right to a large pine tree at the base of the steep internal corner (R2–R3: 20 m, 75°, III; 20 m, 60°, II). On the R3–R4 section — from the pine tree 30 m up the steep internal corner to a sloping terrace. From it, up the left side of the buttress, overcoming a steep short wall through a cleft first (R3–R4: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up the buttress through rocks of medium complexity to a large pine tree at the beginning of the steep internal corner (R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III).

Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 16. Through the central part of the wall through the inner corner, 5A (A. Brynza's route, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend via a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty inner corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend an 8-meter sheer inner corner to the start of a long sloping ledge. Then traverse the ledge right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical slots, and in the middle part, a large and deep inner corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, ascend 35 m up the right slot, then move left to a small ledge near the middle slot. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) through the middle slot to the exit into the large and deep inner corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, traverse 40 m of scree towards the steep section of the inner corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially, ascend the wall, then via a slot to a complex chimney. Ascend it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By-pass it on the right via a sheer wall to reach a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, ascend 20 m via scree up and left, then via the left wall. Ascend a sloping ledge to a ridge and then ascend it or the slabs above (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 75°, V).