6.5.2017

Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

1.2.6 Ascent Log

Peak Barda Vizbora via the West Ridge. Ascent class — technical. 2. Region, mountain range — Altai, North Chuya Ridge. 3. Peak Barda Vizbora, 3390 m, ascent via the West Ridge, combined route. 4. Anticipated difficulty category — 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

• Elevation gain — 600 m;
• Length of sections with 3rd difficulty category — 150 m;
• Average slope — 30°.

6. Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — 2.

Ascent Record for Peak GEPi-KUT, 3450 m, Category 3B

1. Mountainous Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, eastern spur of the main ridge between Maashey (Mazhoy, Maasheyul) gorge and Shavla River gorge.
2. Peak GEPi-KUT, 3450 m, via the Western Ridge,
3. Proposed — Category 3B complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m (by aneroid barometer). Route length: 330 m. Section lengths:

• Category 2 complexity — 200 m;
• Category 3 complexity — 81 m;
• Category 4 complexity — 50 m.

PASSPORT

1. Region — Altai, spurs of the North-Chuya ridge, Karakabak gorge
2. Peak — Zhukov Georgy (3500 m)
3. Route — Cat. III, SW slope, first ascent
4. Height difference — 450 m Route steepness 35°. Protection via ledges
5. Climbing hours — 6.5 h from the lakes
6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports Onishchenko V.P. — International Master of Sports

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M

v. Karatash

3510 m

Report

Teams from Tomsk Region (TFA)

on the first ascent of the route on v. Karatash via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge "4A" (rocky) Participants: Temerev I.M. Karpitskiy E.V. Tomsk — 2004

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Altai, Severo-Chuisky ridge, Aktru valley.
3. V. Kupol via the Western wall couloir.
4. Proposed category 1B (the route has been climbed multiple times, but has apparently never been submitted for classification).
5. Elevation gain 1420 m, distance 4200 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Climbing time: 8 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Sokolov V.P., 1st sports category, 3rd category and novice group.

V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.