180. Svetgar East - West (combined route, G. Melia, category 4B difficulty, fig. 24, 27). From the summit Svetgar Main (route 179) rappelling 8-10 m. Along the simple destroyed snow-covered (cornices) rocky 250-300-meter Western ridge descend to the col under the East ridge of the summit Svetgar Central. On the col bivouac. From Main 1 hour. From the col along the simple snow-covered (cornices) East ridge ascend to the summit Svetgar Central. From Main 1.5-2 hours. From Central down 300-350 m along the ice-snow (cornices), then 60-80 m along the destroyed rocks of medium difficulty and 120-150 m along the wide ice-snow (cornices) Western ridge to a long col (cornices). From Central 2-3 hours. For the ascent to the West summit see route 177. From West 400-500 m down along the steep destroyed snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge. Overcoming "live" stones directly on the rocks of medium difficulty, three gendarmes, descend to the ice-snow col (cornice). On the col bivouac. From the previous bivouac 8-12 hours. From the col:

• 40-50 m up along the difficult wall to the shelf of the East tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka";
• from the shelf bypass the tower of the gendarme along the difficult wall on the left "live" stones and exit to the isthmus under the ascent of the West tower. Along the simple sharp snow-covered 40-50-meter Western ridge ascend to the tower. From the bivouac site - 4-5 hours. From the West tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka":
• 150-200 m down along the Western ridge to the isthmus under the gendarme;
• bypass the gendarme on the right along the shelf, behind it rappelling 30 m along the II ascent;

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,

Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours

192. Tютю Main via the East Ridge (Category II route).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4–12 people), cross the Kullumkol River via a temporary bridge and ascend along the trail on the left bank to the last large meadow below the terminal moraines of the glaciers in the gorge — the “lower paradise bivouac”. Here, turn left and follow the trail on the grassy slopes, then scree, continually bearing left, to reach the left side of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier. Traverse the Zapadny Glacier, staying on its left side (watch out for covered crevasses in the middle section!), to reach the col of the ridge connecting the peaks of the Tютю massif on the left and Dzhailyk on the right. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp — 3.5–4 hours. From the upper snow plateau of the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier, ascend a steep snow slope to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Tютю Eastern peak. Here, turn left and follow a straightforward steep ascent with small rock walls and a 15-meter climb (using ice axe belay!) in the middle section of the Eastern ridge to reach the Eastern peak of the massif. From the Eastern peak, descend a snow slope to a col below the summit ascent. From the col, follow a straightforward gentle rocky ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the left, to ascend to the Main Tютю peak. From the Zapadny Tютюsu Glacier — 3.5–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.

Tyutyu Seconda Western via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route description:

From Shogentsukov's shoulder, descend to the glacier (closed crevices) and approach the saddle of Kullumkol pass, located under the southern slope of the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western. Here, turn right. Having passed the saddle, via simple, possibly icy scree, reach the Western ridge of Tyutyu Western summit. Turn right here and follow the gentle, wide, possibly snow-covered, easy rock 150-200-meter Western ridge to approach the 1st gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via the destroyed rocks on the right. Further along the gentle, местами со снежными карнизами, Western ridge, approach the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on the right via scree. Continue moving along the ridge, and directly along the route, there will be a small stony ascent to the Tyutyu-bashi 1st Zap summit. Here, turn left onto a snowfield and, traversing under the slope of Tyutyu Western, exit onto a steep slope with fine scree. Ascend to the Tyutyu-bashi 2nd Western summit via the loose scree turning into simple rocks. © Morozova Irina

Traverse Tyutyu Western–Eastern, combined, 3A

Route description:

From the "Dzhaulyak" alpine camp, follow the right (orthographically) bank of the Kullumkol River along the trail to a stream, then turn right into the gorge. Cross the stream and move up the trail, which runs along the moraine ridge towards the rock screes. Below the screes, turn right and cross the large talus to the trail leading to the edge of the terminal moraine. Tyutyu overnight campsite. 2.5 hours from the camp. From the campsite, move along the left (in the direction of travel) edge of the glacier along the moraine ridges to reach the plateau below v. Tyutyu 1st Western. The plateau has crevasses. Turn left on the plateau and, bypassing the ice ascent to the left, reach the glacier terrace, from which:

• a straightforward ascent to the Kullumkol Pass. If the snow is in good condition, from this terrace you can:
• turn right onto the steep snow-ice slope and immediately ascend to the ridge below the second "gendarm". From the pass:

203. Ullutau Vostochnaya via the Eastern ridge (combined route, E. Emelyanova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 24, 30). Follow the snowy slope of the Mestia Pass (199 m) to the base of the Eastern ridge of the Ullutau massif. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge to reach the Eastern ridge. Along the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward Eastern ridge, approach the "saw". Traverse the ruined easy and moderately difficult rocks of the "saw" comprising 4 pinnacles, then cross a snowy saddle ("live" rocks, belay), and continue along the straightforward, gentle, long, and in places sharp snowy (cornices) Eastern ridge to reach a snow dome. From the dome, make a simple gentle descent along the wide snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge to a saddle (cornice). From the saddle, make a steep ascent up rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the "Vzlët" pinnacle, and from it follow the straightforward sharp snow-covered (cornice) Eastern ridge. Continue along the ridge past small pinnacles of the second "saw" to the "Ogurtsy" pinnacles. Traverse the "Ogurtsy" pinnacles from the left via steep ruined rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty (belay), and beyond them ascend a couloir to a wide snowy saddle on the Eastern ridge below the rocky wall of the Eastern shoulder. Camp on the saddle. From the Mestia Pass, 4–8 hours. From the saddle:

• Ascend 40 m up moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the wall.
• Continue up a slope-couloir on the left side via a traversing ascent to the ridge of the Eastern shoulder.
• Follow straightforward snow-covered rocks on the left side of the ridge to reach the Eastern shoulder.
• From the shoulder, make a straightforward descent to a saddle (cornice).

203. Ullutau Vostochnaya via the East Ridge (combined route, E. Emelyanova, category 3B complexity, fig. 24, 30). Follow the snowy slope of the Mestian pass saddle (point 199) to the base of the East Ridge of the Ullutau massif. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge to reach the East Ridge of the massif. Along the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward East Ridge, approach the "saw". Traverse the destroyed, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the "saw" with 4 gendarmes, then follow a snowy saddle ("live" rocks, protection), and continue along the straightforward, gentle, long, and occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) East Ridge to the snow dome. From the dome, make a straightforward, gentle descent along the broad, snow-covered rocky East Ridge to a saddle (cornice). From the saddle, a steep ascent follows up rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the "Vzlet" gendarme, and from it along the straightforward, sharp, snow-covered (cornice) East Ridge. Continue along the ridge with small gendarmes of the second "saw" to the "Ogurtsy" gendarmes. Bypass "Ogurtsy" on the left via steep, destroyed rocks of moderate to above-moderate difficulty (protection) and rise up a couloir to a broad snowy saddle on the East Ridge below the rocky wall of the East shoulder. The saddle is a bivouac site. From the Mestian pass, 4–8 hours. From the saddle:

• Ascend 40 m up rocks of moderate difficulty on the left side of the wall;
• continue up the slope-couloir on the left side, traversing to the ridge of the East shoulder;
• follow straightforward, snow-covered rocks on the left side of the ridge to the East shoulder;
• from the shoulder, make a straightforward descent to a saddle (cornice);
• cross the saddle along the ice-snow ridge, then follow the slope and straightforward rocks to ascend to the summit of Ullutau Vostochnaya.

272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.