Route description.

From the base camp - exit along the left orographic bank of the Guaaya River to the cirque of Glacier No.3. Ascend the moraine of the glacier to the first couloir on the left leading to the peak 4420 (n. Tashkontsev). At the beginning of the couloir, there is a pronounced cone of fine gray scree, to the right of which a small area of coarse and medium scree adjoins. Ascend the scree and couloir (200 m) to the scree shelves on the left rib. The couloir is rockfall-prone. Along the scree shelves, bypassing the rock walls of the rib, ascend to the internal angle with a small rock wall. In front of the wall, there is a snow-ice slope of about 30°. Ascend the wall and then along the scree slope under the rock wall of the final rib.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing class - technical 2. Climbing area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. 4580 m (250th anniversary of Kazakhstan's accession to Russia) via the northeast face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B cat. diff. (tentative (first ascent)) 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference 830 m
• length of 5-6 grade sections 621 m
• average steepness 66°
• average steepness of the wall section of the route 74°

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

108. Altyn-Beshik via the West Ridge. The route is combined, category 2A. (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 1000 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2-12 people) down the road along the Kurgan valley to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge, turn left and ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River to the first side valley (say). Here, turn right and up along the pack trail on the right side of the side valley, then ascend via scree to the Chita-Biit pass. From the alpine camp — 3-3.5 hours. At the pass is the starting bivouac. From the starting bivouac, traverse via grassy slopes and scree under the northern slopes of Altyn-Beshik peak to approach a wide couloir filled with 1-2 m scree, descending from under the West Ridge. Having passed the couloir, turn left and ascend via steep 50° simple rock of large block structure

109. Altyn-Beshik via the North Ridge. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 104–106). Length — 900 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alp camp (group of 4-12 people) go down the road to the Kirgizata River. Cross the Kirgizata River by bridge and, turning left, ascend along the road on the right bank of the Karagoy River in the eponymous gorge to the first side gorge (сай). Here, turn right and ascend along the pack trail on the right side of the side gorge, then across the moraine and scree up and right, to reach a small plateau between the Altyn-Beshik peak and a solitary gendarme. From the alp camp — 3–3.5 hours. On the plateau is the initial bivouac. From the plateau, go left and up along the easy rocky Western Ridge to the 1st rocky rise. Bypass the rise by traversing across the scree on the right to a couloir. Through simple steep 45–50° rocks on the left, then right side of the couloir ("live" rocks, drippy ice, piton belay), make a 100–120-meter ascent to the North Ridge. Along the horizontal 40-meter North Ridge, a 5-meter moderately difficult wall, and 50–60 meters of easy North Ridge on scree, reach a scree shelf below the 2nd rise.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alai ridge
3. Peak — Gelin-Tash Height — 3900 m Ascent route — via the southern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2–6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 650 m

15

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region of ascent, mountain range — Pamiro-Alay, Kichik-Aks ridge
3. Peak — Repin­tash Height — 3900 m. Ascent route — via the northern slope
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3–5
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 900 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 55°
   • Average steepness — 55°

Ascent Passport. No. 14

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Summit: Brothers Kadomtsevs Jiiirty Height: 4697 m Ascent route: from the south to the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 800 m
   • Route length: 5–6 km

32. Zhashtyk Uzlovaya via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 40–42). Length — 600 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 5–6 hours. The path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake below the Northwest wall of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, traverse the moraines right-up the gorge to reach the East Kyrgyz-Ata glacier and follow its left side (closed crevasses) to approach the left side of the Zhashtyk pass, to the left of its three gendarmes. Time from the initial bivouac is 1–1.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund (protection), and ascend 250–300 m up the steep snow-ice slope, to the right of a lone rocky outcrop, to the left side of the Zhashtyk pass col. On the col, turn left and follow the broad, gentle, scree-covered, snow-covered 120–150-meter Southwest ridge, passing two straightforward 10–20-meter rock steps, to approach the rock step of the summit. Initially, traverse the step with an 80–100-meter traverse with a slight ascent along simple rocks on the right side of the Southwest ridge (protection). Then ascend 100–120 m up a narrowing couloir (falling rocks, loose rocks, piton protection) to reach the summit Southwest ridge. Here, turn right and follow simple, steep, broken rocks (protection) of the 20–30-meter Southwest ridge to reach the summit of Zhashtyk Uzlovaya. Time from the start of the ascent to the Zhashtyk pass is 5–6 hours.

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.