Route description.

From the base camp - exit along the left orographic bank of the Guaaya River to the cirque of Glacier No.3. Ascend the moraine of the glacier to the first couloir on the left leading to the peak 4420 (n. Tashkontsev). At the beginning of the couloir, there is a pronounced cone of fine gray scree, to the right of which a small area of coarse and medium scree adjoins.

Ascend the scree and couloir (200 m) to the scree shelves on the left rib. The couloir is rockfall-prone.

Along the scree shelves, bypassing the rock walls of the rib, ascend to the internal angle with a small rock wall. In front of the wall, there is a snow-ice slope of about 30°. Ascend the wall and then along the scree slope under the rock wall of the final rib.

Bypassing the wall on the right, exit into the couloir. Traverse the couloir on snow and ice, ascend the smoothed rocks (in the lower part - iced) to the control cairn.

Control cairn.

From the cairn:

• up the rock wall with piton belay;
• then along the scree shelves - exit to the next rock wall;
• ascend the wall to the left - up, climbing of medium difficulty, piton belay;
• along the scree shelves - exit to a rock wall with an internal angle;
• up the angle - climbing of medium difficulty, exit up with piton belay;
• then along the scree shelves and неслож­ным разру­ше­нным ска­лам - exit to the summit.

Descent from the summit along the northern ridge via the marked route at 45 km/h.