Ascent Passport 855

1. Ascent Class High-altitude and technical ascent
2. Ascent Region South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route Peak TGU, 6183 m, center of W wall
4. Assumed difficulty category 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference 1240 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1018 m
   • Average steepness 78°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Category

High-altitude and technical.

2. Ascent Region

Shakhdarin Range. South-West Pamir.

3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Elevations

Peak TadGU, 6183 m, via the East-South-East wall, 6B category of difficulty.

4. Ascent Characteristics

Elevation gain — approximately 1000 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section — 500 m.

5. Number of Pitons Driven

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Region of ascent — Southern spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge, upper reaches of the Zugvand gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: TGU peak, 6183 m, along the edge of the Eastern rib of the Southern pre-peak.
4. Category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Characteristics of the route: the route is combined, height difference — 1100 m, including the wall part — 1000 m, length of sections of the 5th category — 545 m, 6th category — 585 m, route length — 1180 m, average steepness — 74°.
6. Driven pitons (for insurance / for ITO): rock — 122/23, "heavenly" — 0/12, bolt — 0/16, chocks — 67/9.
7. Number of travel hours — 46 h.

I. Climbing category — altitude-technical. 2. Climbing area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarinsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, route — Peak TGU 6183 m, via the left edge of the Eastern wall. 4. Difficulty category — 6B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section 1000 m, total 1183 m, length of 6th category sections — 754 m, length of 5th category sections — 407 m, average steepness of the wall section 78°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock belay 252, bolted 5, for creating artificial climbing holds (ACH) rock 106. 7. Number of climbing hours 72.5 (10 for route reconnaissance). 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 5 bivouacs on the wall, including: three semi-reclining, two reclining. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification: Team leader: Varov Viktor Ivanovich — CMS (Candidate Master of Sports).

Georgian Alpine Club named after A. Japaridze Tadj. G.U. eastern edge ridge of the southern sub-peak (First ascent report) Team captain G. Kartvelishvili Team coach T. Berishvili Tbilisi – 1979

863

I. Ascent class - high-altitude technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge - South-West Pamir, spurs of the Shakhdara ridge, Zughvand gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Taj. GU peak, 6183 m, the edge of the Eastern wall. 4. Difficulty category - 6. 5. Route characteristics: - Height difference - 1000 m. - Length of sections with 5 diff. cat. - 630 m. - Length of sections with 6 diff. cat. - 505 m. - Average steepness - 82°.

1. Category of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge, upper reaches of the Zuvgand gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p.TGU, 6183 m, along the edge of the Eastern rib of the Southern pre-peak.
4. Category of difficulty – 6.
5. Characteristics of the route: the route is combined, height difference – 1100 m, including the wall part – 1000 m, length of sections: – 5th category of difficulty – 545 m – 6th category of difficulty – 585 m, route length – 1180 m, average steepness – 74°.
6. Number of pitons driven (for belaying / for ITO):

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Togu (6141 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 1640 m; average steepness 32°; section lengths: R1 — 1700 m R2 — 1090 m R3 — 2240 m R4 — 340 m

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit 5650 m «Tespara» via the western ridge

FIRST ASCENT

Team members:

NEKRASOV V.L. GORODETSKII V.I. Team coach: MSМК NEKRASOV V.P. August 26, 1976

I. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

2. Mizhirgi East

Summit: V. Mizhirgi East, 4927 m. Route sections: R0, R1, R2, R3.