- Category of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
- Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge, upper reaches of the Zuvgand gorge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: p.TGU, 6183 m, along the edge of the Eastern rib of the Southern pre-peak.
- Category of difficulty – 6.
- Characteristics of the route:
the route is combined, height difference – 1100 m, including the wall part – 1000 m, length of sections: – 5th category of difficulty – 545 m – 6th category of difficulty – 585 m, route length – 1180 m, average steepness – 74°.
- Number of pitons driven (for belaying / for ITO):
rock — 122/23, "heavenly" — 0/12, bolt — 0/16, chocks — 67/9.
- Number of climbing hours – 46 hours.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: three semi-reclined, one sitting.
- Full name of the team leader, participants and their qualifications:
- Shuvalov Vyacheslav Aleksandrovich — CMS
- Volodin Viktor Gennadievich — CMS
- Golovkin Nikolai Mikhailovich — CMS
- Drobicko Vladimir Petrovich — CMS
- Khokhlov Yuri Vladimirovich — CMS
- Sheynov Alexander Vasilievich — CMS
- Team coach: Demchenko Alexander Stepanovich — MSIC.
- Date of departure on the route and return: July 29, 1983 – August 2, 1983.
— MVO team's route
TABLE OF KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO p.TGU 6th cat. sl. ALONG THE EDGE OF THE EASTERN RIB OF THE SOUTHERN PRE-PEAK
| Date | Section № | Steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Character of terrain | Category of difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Pitons driven (rock) | Pitons driven (bolt) | Pitons driven (heavenly) | Chocks | Climbing hours | Bivouacs and their characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 29.07.1983 | R1 | 90 | 45 | Chimney with overhang, turning into an inner corner | 6 | Monolith, rockfall hazard. | Good | 9 | – | – | 2 | 2 hours (from 7:00 to 11:00 – preparation, from 16:00 to 22:00 – ascent) | Bivouac on a ledge in a four-man tent, semi-reclined, two semi-reclined beside |
| R2 | 85 | 40 | Wall leading to an inner corner | 6 | --"-- | --"-- | 6 | – | – | 2 | |||
| R3 | 90 | 45 | Narrowing chimney, crack | 6 | --"-- | --"-- | 8 | – | – | 3 | |||
| R4 | 70 | 40 | Wall divided by sloping ledges | 5 | --"-- | --"-- | 2 | – | – | 3 | |||
| R5 | 60 | 70 | Walls, ledges | 5 | Broken rocks | --"-- | 4 | – | – | 5 | |||
| R6 | 40 | 50 | Sloping scree ledges, slabs | 4 | Snow on ledges, ice forming | Good | 3 | – | – | 3 | 10 climbing hours | ||
| 30.07.1983 | R7 | 80 | 45 | Wall with overhang. Snow-covered rocks. | 5 | Broken rocks. | Good | 5 | – | – | 2 | Movement from 9:00 to 20:00 | Bivouac on section R15 under an awning |
| R8 | 60 | 85 | Ridge, wall, crack | 5 | Snow-covered rocks | --"-- | 7 | – | – | 4 | |||
| R9 | 80 | 25 | Inner corner | 5 | Wet, smooth rocks | --"-- | 4 | – | – | 4 | |||
| R10 | 92 | 40 | Wall with a cornice | 5 | Monolithic rocks | --"-- | 8 | – | – | 3 | |||
| R11 | 80 | 30 | Wall with overhang | 5 | Broken rocks | --"-- | 5 | – | – | 2 | |||
| R12 | 85 | 45 | Chimney | 5 | Unstable rocks | --"-- | 7 | – | – | – | |||
| R13 | 60 | 40 | Smooth slabs | 5 | Wet rocks | --"-- | 6 | – | – | 2 | |||
| R14 | 70 | 45 | Wall | 5 | Monolith | --"-- | 6 | – | – | 1 | |||
| R15 | 60 | 40 | Wall with overhang | 5 | Monolith, ice forming | --"-- | 6 | – | – | 2 | |||
| R16 | 60 | 20 | Smooth inner corner | 5 | Monolith | --"-- | 5 | – | – | 1 | |||
| 31.07.1983 | R17 | 65 | 40 | Wall leading to an inner corner | 5 | Smooth, monolithic rocks, snow. | --"-- | 2 | – | – | 4 | 11 climbing hours | |
| R18 | 80 | 45 | Wall with crack | 6 | Smooth monolith | Unstable | 8 | – | – | 1 | From 13:30 to 18:30 | Bivouac on section R20, semi-reclined | |
| R19 | 90 | 15 | Wall | 6 | Unstable, broken rock | --"-- | 3 | – | – | 1 | |||
| R20 | 80 | 60 | Wall with cornices | 6 | Smooth monolith | --"-- | Descent | "Rappel" | 5 climbing hours | ||||
| 01.08.1983 | R21 | 70 | 30 | Narrow sloping ledge on the wall | 5 | Monolith, snow | Unstable | 4 | – | – | 1 | Bivouac on section R23 on a narrow ledge, sitting. | |
| R22 | 80 | 20 | Inner corner | 5 | Monolith | --"-- | 4 | – | – | 2 | |||
| R23 | 90 | 25 | Wall with an awning | 6 | --"-- | --"-- | 5 | 1 | – | 3 | |||
| R24 | 90 | 40 | Walls with awnings | 6 | Monolith | Unstable | 8 | 1 | 4 | 3 | |||
| R25 | 90 | 45 | Overhanging inner corner | 6 | --"-- | Clouds, wind | 4 | 1 | 1 | 5 | |||
| R26 | 90 | 45 | Wall with overhang | 6 | --"-- | --"-- | 4 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 11 climbing hours | ||
| 02.08.1983 | R27 | 80 | 45 | Wall with a crack in the upper part | 6 | Unstable rocks | Fog, visibility 20 m | 5 | 1 | – | 4 | Movement from 9:00 to 18:00 | Reaching the summit at 18:00 |
| R28 | 65 | 70 | Ledges, walls | 5 | --"-- | --"-- | 3 | – | – | 6 | |||
| R29 | 90 | 30 | Wall | 6 | --"-- | Strong wind | 2 | 1 | – | 2 | |||
| R30 | 80 | 25 | Inner corner | 6 | --"-- | Cloudiness with clearances | 3 | 2 | 1 | 2 | |||
| R31 | 25 | 300 | Snow-ice slope | 3 | Snow, ice | Wind | – | – | – | – | 9 climbing hours | ||
| Total: | avg. steepness | 74 | 1180 | 145 | 6 | 11 | 76 | 46 climbing hours |
Technical photograph of the route with marked sections.
Scheme of the Kartvelishvili route according to the description of the first ascenders.
(ΔТ.К.Т) — locations of control tours of the first ascenders (according to the description).
Δ1" К.Т. — control tours discovered or established by the MVO team while passing the route.
Petition
To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation
On July 29, 1983, during the training camp of the SA and VMF on alpinism, the team of the Moscow Military District consisting of:
- Shuvalov V. A. — CMS
- Volodin V. G. — CMS
- Golovkin N. M. — CMS
- Drobicko V. P. — CMS
- Khokhlov Yu. V. — CMS
- Sheynov A. V. — CMS
was released to ascend p.TGU via the edge of the Eastern wall of the Southern pre-peak, 6B category of difficulty (Kartvelishvili route), with a two-day interval from the group of the Altai Sports Committee, which departed on the same route on July 27. In the second half of the day on July 30, the MVO team caught up with the group of the Altai Sports Committee near the III control tour (section R16). After waiting for another day, on July 31, still unable to make progress on the route, and also due to significant rockfall hazard, the MVO team was forced to request via radio communication the coaching council to allow them to switch from the edge of the Eastern wall to the South-Southeast wall, on which the V. Solonnikov route, 6B category of difficulty, is located.
Considering the situation and guided by safety considerations, the coaching council granted this request.
The MVO team, descending 80 m, traversed to the South-Southeast wall and continued the ascent along it, following the tracks of the Solonnikov route.
On August 2, the MVO team reached the summit.
The Alpinism Section of the SCA MVO petitions the Classification Commission of the FА USSR to approve the MVO team's ascent of the combination of the Kartvelishvili — Solonnikov routes on p.TGU, 6B category of difficulty.
The decision of the coaching council of the SA and VMF and the report on the passage of the route are attached.
Chairman of the Alpinism Section of the SCA MVO, MS USSR V. D. Starlychanov
Coach of the MVO team, MSIC A. S. Demchenko