- Class of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
- Region of ascent — Southern spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge, upper reaches of the Zugvand gorge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: TGU peak, 6183 m, along the edge of the Eastern rib of the Southern pre-peak.
- Category of difficulty — 6B.
- Characteristics of the route: the route is combined, height difference — 1100 m, including the wall part — 1000 m, length of sections of the 5th category — 545 m, 6th category — 585 m, route length — 1180 m, average steepness — 74°.
- Driven pitons (for insurance / for ITO): rock — 122/23, "heavenly" — 0/12, bolt — 0/16, chocks — 67/9.
- Number of travel hours — 46 h.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: three semi-reclining, one sitting.
- Full name of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
- Shuvalov Vyacheslav Aleksandrovich — CMS
- Volodin Viktor Gennadievich — CMS
- Golovkin Nikolai Mikhailovich — CMS
- Drobittko Vladimir Petrovich — CMS
- Khokhlov Yuri Vladimirovich — CMS
- Sheynov Alexander Vasilievich — CMS.
- Team coach: Demchenko Alexander Stepanovich — MSIC.
- Date of departure on the route and return: July 29, 1983 – August 2, 1983.
TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO TGU PEAK, 6B cat. sl., ALONG THE EDGE OF THE EASTERN RIB OF THE SOUTHERN PRE-PEAK
Technical characteristics of the constructed route with load-bearing sections
- Scheme of the Kartvelishvili route according to the description of the first ascenders.
- Δ1st c.t. — locations of control tours of the first ascenders (as described).
- Δ1" C.T. — control tours discovered or established by the MVO team during the passage of the route.
- Route taken by the MVO team.
- Places for overnight stays.
| Date | Section No. | Steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Character of relief | Category of difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Driven and used pitons: rock | Driven and used pitons: bolt | Driven and used pitons: "heavenly" | Chockstones | Travel hours | Overnight stays and their characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R6 | 40 | 50 | Inclined talus shelves, slabs | 4 | Snow on shelves, iced snow | Good | 3 | - | - | 3 | 10 travel hours | ||
| July 29, 1983 | R7 | 80 | 45 | Wall with overhang. Snow-covered rocks. | 5 | Destroyed rocks. | Good | 5 | - | - | 2 | Movement from 9:00 to 20:00 | Overnight stay on section R15 under an awning |
| R8 | 60 | 85 | Ridge, wall, cleft | 5 | Snow-covered rocks | — | 7 | - | - | 4 | |||
| R9 | 80 | 25 | Inner corner | 6 | Wet, smooth rocks | — | 4 | - | - | 4 | |||
| R10 | 92 | 40 | Wall with a cornice | 6 | Monolithic rocks | — | 8 | - | - | 3 | |||
| R11 | 80 | 30 | Wall with overhang | 6 | Destroyed rocks | — | 5 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R12 | 85 | 45 | Chimney | 6 | Unstable rocks | — | 7 | - | - | - | |||
| R13 | 60 | 40 | Smooth slabs | 5 | Wet rocks | — | 6 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R14 | 70 | 45 | Wall | 5 | Monolith | — | 6 | - | - | 1 | |||
| R15 | 60 | 40 | Wall with overhang | 5 | Monolith, iced snow | — | 6 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R16 | 60 | 20 | Smooth inner corner | 5 | Monolith | — | 5 | - | - | 1 | |||
| R17 | 65 | 40 | Wall leading to an inner corner | 5 | Smooth, monolithic rocks, snow. | — | 2 | - | - | 4 | 11 travel hours | ||
| July 31, 1983 | R18 | 80 | 45 | Wall with a crack | 6 | Smooth monolith | Unstable | 8 | - | - | 1 | From 13:30 to 18:30 | Overnight stay on section R20, semi-reclining |
| R19 | 90 | 15 | Wall | 6 | Unstable, destroyed rock | — | 3 | - | - | 1 | |||
| R20 | 80 | 60 | Wall with cornices | 6 | Smooth monolith | — | Descent "Dülfer", 5 travel hours | ||||||
| August 1, 1983 | R21 | 70 | 30 | Narrow inclined shelf on the wall | 5 | Monolith, snow | Unstable | 4 | - | - | 1 | Overnight stay on section R23 on a narrow shelf, sitting. | |
| R22 | 80 | 20 | Inner corner | 5 | Monolith | — | 4 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R23 | 90 | 25 | Wall with an overhang | 6 | — | — | 5 | - | - | 3 | |||
| R24 | 90 | 40 | Walls with overhangs | 6 | Monolith | Unstable | 8 | - | - | 3 | |||
| R25 | 90 | 45 | Overhanging inner corner | 6 | — | Clouds, wind | 4 | - | - | 5 | |||
| R26 | 90 | 45 | Wall with overhang | 6 | — | — | 4 | - | - | 3 | 11 travel hours | ||
| August 2, 1983 | R27 | 80 | 45 | Wall with a cleft in the upper part | 6 | Unstable rocks | Fog, visibility 20 m | 5 | - | - | 4 | Movement from 9:00 to 18:00 | Reached the summit at 18:00 |
| R28 | 65 | 70 | Shelves, walls | 5 | — | — | 3 | - | - | 6 | |||
| R29 | 90 | 30 | Wall | 6 | — | Strong wind | 2 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R30 | 80 | 25 | Inner corner | 6 | — | Cloudiness with clearings | 3 | - | - | 2 | |||
| R31 | 25 | 300 | Snow-ice slope | 3 | Snow, ice | Wind | - | - | - | - | 9 travel hours | ||
| Total: | avg. st. 74° | 1180 | 145 | 16 | 12 | 76 | 46 travel hours |
Petition
To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation.
On July 29, 1983, during the training camp of the SA and VMF in alpinism, the team of the Moscow Military District consisting of:
- Shuvalov V.A. — CMS
- Volodin V.G. — CMS
- Golovkin N.M. — CMS
- Drobittko V.P. — CMS
- Khokhlov Yu.V. — CMS
- Sheynov A.V. — CMS
was released to make an ascent to TGU peak via the edge of the Eastern wall of the Southern pre-peak, 6B category of difficulty (Kartvelishvili route), with a two-day interval from the group of the Altai Sports Committee, which started the same route on July 27. In the second half of the day on July 30, the MVO team caught up with the group of the Altai Sports Committee in the area of the III control tour (R16). Having waited another day, on July 31, still not having the opportunity to advance along the route, and also due to significant rockfall danger, the MVO team was forced to request permission from the coaching council via radio communication to switch from the edge of the Eastern wall to the P.P.V. wall, along which the V. Solonnikov route, 6B category of difficulty, passes.
Considering the сложившаяся situation and guided by safety considerations, the coaching council satisfied this request. The MVO team, having descended 80 m, traversed to the P.P.V. wall and continued the ascent along it, following the tracks of the Solonnikov route.
On August 2, the MVO team reached the summit. The Alpinism Section of the SCA MVO petitions to the Classification Commission of the FА USSR to approve the MVO team's passage of the combination of the Kartvelishvili – Solonnikov routes on TGU peak, 6B category of difficulty.
The decision of the coaching council of the SA and VMF and the report on the passage of the route are attached.
Chairman of the Alpinism Section of the SCA MVO, MS USSR V.D. STARLYCHANOV
Team coach MVO, MSIC A.S. DEMCHENKO