Peak October from SE

2A — difficulty cat. Peak October is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit is 4100 m. It is the most beautiful summit in the area, having a pyramid shape and dropping off with sheer walls towards the Maihura River. Approaches and overnight stops are similar to those for the Shirokaya and Nevezuchaya peaks. The ascent to the summit begins from a col on its SE ridge at a height of 3500 m. The ascent to the col, clearly visible from below, goes along a steep scree, местами cemented, and grassy slopes. From the col, we approach the rocks and, bypassing them on the right along a ledge (about 30 m) above the sheer walls towards Maihura, we come to the beginning of a small couloir dropping off with walls. Crossing the couloir from left to right upwards, we come to its upper part, representing a chimney with a plug at the top. Having ascended the chimney to the plug (3–4 m), we go to the right onto the ridge and along it — to the summit. The rocks are easy, passed partly simultaneously, partly with occasional belays on выступы, friable. Descent from the summit: continuing the traverse along the western ridge (about 10–15 m), we descend to a narrow friable ledge and along it about 30–40 m to the beginning of a cleft turning into a couloir, along which we descend to the start of the ascent. Further — descent to the valley along any couloir. The first ascent was made on November 7, 1962. Time taken from overnight stop to overnight stop at the mouth of r. T. Igizak is 12 hours.

Description of the Traverse of the "Piramida" Peak

2B category of difficulty Departure from the base camp, located in the Avicenna cirque, to the middle moraine at 6 am. Ascent up the snowy plateau to the "Okno" pass, then left to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd (farthest) gendarmes. Exit to the saddle on snow and rock ledges. Then we come out to a small gentle snowy plateau (on the east side of the ridge), cross it to the left and approach the ledges to the right of the visible crevice from the plateau. Further: – On the ledges to the left, we approach the beginning of a 10 m high wall with good protrusions and holds (protection to the right of the crevice through a protrusion). – Further ascent goes up a vertical (70°) crevice with a small number of holds (hook protection required), 30 m. – Continue ascent along the ridge upwards.

2. Climbing area, ridge — Nura-Alaï, Gissar Ridge. 3. Summit, its height, ascent route — 4234 m, via the east ridge. August 15, 1953 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 460 m average steepness — 44°, length of 5th difficulty category sections — 450 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying for creating intermediate belay points: rock — 51½, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 9 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — the route was completed without bivouacs.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Margib mountain junction.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Regi-Kolon, 4060 m, South-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections R5–R6 cat. diff. — 35 m, average steepness — 67°.
6. 22 rock anchors were hammered in for belaying.
7. Number of climbing hours: 8 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: no overnight stays.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualifications:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): Gissar Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sangi-Navishta, 3980 m via the eastern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 600 m average steepness: 55° section lengths: 180 m, 280 m, 370 m, 480 m, 540 m, 6... m.

Description

Traverse of the "Seraia" peak 3900 m above sea level

The "Seraia" peak is located in the Southern spurs of the Gissar ridge to the north of Dushanbe city. The ridge of "Seraia" stretches from west to east for a length of 3.5–4 km. The ridge has a remarkably distinctive character in its structure. Being on the same ridge as the "Yakum" peak, which consists of pure granites, the ridge of "Seraia" consists of marbleized limestone, which greatly complicates the organization of piton belay. The ridge consists of three peaks: the Main (or Western) peak (which is the highest), the Middle peak, conditionally called the "Main Gendarme", and the Eastern peak, named by the first ascenders, army climbers, as "Chortov palets" (Devil's Finger). The approaches to the ridge of "Seraia" are most conveniently made from the "Varzob" alpine camp along the Salo-Rabot river valley. After two fifty-minute transitions, we reach the first large right tributary and start ascending up along its left bank, following the trail. The trail leads to the ridge, which leads to the Yakum peak. At the border of rocks and grassy slopes, we cross the ridge and start traversing the slopes on the other side with a slight gain in altitude. The path is easy here. Then we enter the northern cirque of Yakum peak and, continuing to move east along the ridge of "Seraia", we reach the "Prostorny" pass. It is convenient to set up a base camp at this pass. This pass connects two snowy cirques, and therefore it is completely windless here; from here, the most difficult sections of the ascent to the "Main Gendarme" are visible.

93

Ascent to the summit of YUZHNAYA SIAM via the Northwest Wall, category 2B difficulty

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River, or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida. In the first case, it takes two hours to reach the Pereval Chetyrekh. From the pass, descend to the left onto the scree of the western slopes of the ridge and, bypassing the summit of Malyutki Siama, approach the summit of Yuzhnaya Siama. The northwest slopes of the summit are covered with snow and ice, and there is a characteristic rocky outcrop in the pre-summit area, which is accessed via a narrow couloir. The couloir is snow-ice with a slope of 30–40°. Follow the firn slope to the base of the couloir and move up it. At the end of summer, the couloir is icy, so crampons are necessary! Continue moving up the couloir towards the rocky outcrop. The couloir ends with an ice wall 80–90 m long and 45–60° steep, and the rocky outcrop. Climb the rocks of the outcrop on the right side, and then the ice wall to reach the pre-summit snow ridge. To overcome the last 20 m of the ice wall (up to 70°), steps need to be cut. Belaying is with pitons! The pre-summit snow ridge, which is not too steep, leads to the summit rocky ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty. To the summit, 1–1.5 rope lengths. The descent from the summit is to the southwest via a narrow couloir with a slope of 30–35°. After 100 m, traverse the couloir to the right. Then, across easy rocks with scree, cross three low, destroyed counter-forces and descend onto the scree (snow in early summer) and, bypassing the western slopes of Yuzhnaya Siama and then Malyutki Siama, reach Pereval Chetyrekh, and from there descend to the base camp.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Group size – 6 people
2. Initial bivouac – base camp on Siama or moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida.

Ascent Passport 2604

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Sangalt area.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Sogdiana, South Tower, 3900 m, from the west via the couloir (CK).
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, average steepness — 40°, length of sections:
   • I — 350 m
   • II — 50 m
   • III — 180 m

Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Fig. 8.