Report

of the Tashgorsportkomitet team on the ascent of Mt. Chatyn (main) 4368 m via the "diamond" of the northern wall (variant along the edge) UzSSR, Tashkent 1981

Profile of the wall section of the route

Orography and brief history of exploration

Mt. Chatyn is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off between the peaks of Malaya Ushba and Shchurovsky. The spur is a sharp rocky-ice (snow) ridge, with three distinct peaks: Western, Main, and Eastern Chatyn. The Western peak was first conquered in 1912 by Golubev via a relatively easy route from the Ushba plateau. The exploration of Chatyn's wall began only in 1952. B.A. Garf's group passed a route through the Northern wall. In 1954, I.P. Leonov's group traversed the peaks Chatyn-Ushba-Mazeri, ascending via a steep counterfort of the Northern wall. In 1957, I.V. Solodueva's group traversed the eastern edge of the massif. It wasn't until 1959 that the "diamond" of the Northern wall was conquered - a huge black rocky overhang beneath the Main peak. Two teams - A. Snesarev's and L. Myshlyaev's - after a multi-day assault, established two routes of the highest category on Chatyn. To date, five routes have been passed through the "diamond" of the Northern wall (I. Chernoslivin, 1965, I. Bolizhevsky, 1969, V. Krakovich, 1972, in addition to the two mentioned above), the technical difficulty of which is undeniable, as proven by time.

Conditions of the ascent to Mt. Chatyn via the "diamond" of the Northern wall (variant along the edge)

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn Glavny via the "diamond" on the N face, Myshlyaev's route.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Elevation gain: 830 m, length 1010 m, length of 5–6 sections — 540 m. Average steepness of the route is 65°. Major sections 83°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice | Chocks | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :----- | | 109 (48+) | 76+ | 16/3 | 50 |

PASSPORT

1. Technical Grade
2. Central Caucasus
3. v. Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the north wall (Myshlyaev's route)
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 270 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :---: | :----: | :---: | :------: | | 37+10^ | 24^ | 67 | 23 |

Report on the First Ascent by the Team of the Multidisciplinary Climbing Club "FRILINE" from Essentuki

To the summit of Khazni-Bashi

via the south ridge and southwest wall Presumably 4B category of difficulty Team Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2019 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59, Popov M.L. 8 928 265-71-30 mikl_popov@inbox.ru

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Chatyn via "Romb" chimneys of the Northern wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 768 m, route length — 1175 m.
6. Length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 575 m. Length of sections with 6 diff. cat. — 515 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 86°.
7. Pitons driven: | rock | ice | protection elements | bolt (used) | | :--: | :-: | :-----------------: | :---------: |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
4. 6B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)

Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Central Caucasus. 2.4
3. Chatyn Glavny (4368 m), via the diamond-shaped section of the North Face.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section of the route — 770 m. Length — 1200 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 80°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m.
6. Pitons left on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn — 4368 m, route along the diagonal of the "diamond" on the North Wall, combined (10. Chernoslivina).
4. 6B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5B–6B difficulty — 560 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons hammered:

2286

V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":

• PRIMITIVE ROUTE
• SNESAREV'S ROUTE
• CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
• MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)

Ascent Log (Second Ascent)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Chatyn Glavny, 4368 m, via the diamond on the North face (Grakovich).
4. Proposed category difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1000 m
   • average steepness — 75°
   • length of sections: 2 — none, 3 — none, 4–5 — 450 m, 6 — 550 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating RPE.