— Peak Kharsant (4800 m) from the OPTZ pass, 3A cat.

II — August 13, 1969. O.I. Molchardov, A.S. Mardezov, L.A. Belyaev, L.N. Shmakova, O.A. Shalya. From the OPTZ pass (the ascent to the pass — see "Ascent from OPTZ pass") an ascent up the slope and a heavily destroyed trench (variable insurance through tricky ledges and pitons). Then exit to a snow patch on the right (by the route) side of the ridge and along an inclined rock slab 80 m to a platform under a rock tower (difficult climbing, piton insurance). The further path to the summit ridge passes along the rocky wall of the peak. From the platform under the tower — traverse along ledges to a vertical rock pinnacle 10–12 m high. Ascend the pinnacle (piton insurance), then along the rocks — 2 ropes to the beginning of a large main couloir descending from the summit ridge. Many loose rocks. Ascent up the central part of the couloir (2.5 ropes) and exit to a narrow summit ridge (width 0.8–1 m). Along heavily destroyed steep rocks — ascent to the summit tower (one rope). Descent from the summit — along the ascent route to the platform under the tower, then to the right — down along rock ledges to the main couloir of black rocks, leading to a snow corrie, from the corrie — along the snowy ridge, bypassing the pass OPTZ saddle (novice climbers' descent route). Ascent to the summit from the pass — 6 hours, descent — 3.5 hours

Peak "Tsempti Khergiani" (4960 m) from the Purovsky glacier on August 8, 1969. Category 4B. Peak Tsempti Khergiani is located in the cirque of the Purovsky glacier, in the ridge between the OPTZ and "4600" passes, being the second (after p. Turnsiat) peak from the "4600" pass. The path from the assault camp to the Purovsky glacier initially goes down along the right part of the glacier along the lateral moraine. After passing the steep part of the glacier, it is necessary to cross it, orienting towards the end of the rock mass descending from the ridge between the OPTZ pass and Kharsang. The rock mass is bypassed on the right at the bottom along the moraines. Then, there is an exit to the snowfields leading to the cirque. onto the slope of peak "Tsempti Khergiani". On the moraine in the upper part of the glacier along the slopes of the peak - an overnight stay. From the base camp to the overnight stay, it takes 3.5-4 hours. From the overnight stay, ascend along the snowy slope to a large rocky island formed by two wide couloirs. Upwards along the simple and medium rocks of the island, then exit onto the snow and along the snow-ice slope (avalanche danger) with a steepness of up to 45° (ice hooks) straight up to the right snow shoulder of the peak. On the shoulder, under the gendarme, there is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the bivouac on the moraine, it takes about 4 hours. From the shoulder, along the snow cornice (cornice), bypassing a large stone on the right, exit under the snow-ice board. Opening it from the left, ascend along the chimney (3 m) to the slopes of the lower part of the wall.

Climbing Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak valley
3. Ak-Su (5217 m) via the North Face, L. Troshchinenko route.
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference 1590 m, length 2490 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 885 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty – 435 m, average steepness of the route – 60°, average steepness of the main part of the route – 74°.

Report

• on the championship of alpine training and sports bases and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO of trade unions in mountaineering 1988
• on the peak Ak-Su Ser. (5217 m)
• on the center of the north wall, variant of Popov's route
• 2nd ascent
• team of ASB "Domбай"
• team coach - Grishchenko Valentin Anatolyevich
• team leader - Chaplynsky Igor Orestovich

Addresses

3. The summit, its height, route — peak 4437 m (Atabekova peak) via the North-Eastern wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4A
5. Characteristics of the route:
   • Height difference: −450 m Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty: 30 m
• Steepness of the wall section: 55°
• Average steepness: 35°
• Total length of the route: 750 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay (Kara-Su gorge)
3. Ascent route: via the northern counterfort of the eastern ridge of peak "4786"
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, average slope — route: 44°, wall section: 85°, length — route: 1680 m, difficult section: 600 m
5. Pitons driven: rock — 132, ice — none, bolt — none
6. Total climbing hours: 31.5 hours
7. Number of bivouacs: two, first — sitting on a ledge, second — comfortable on the ridge

Ascent Passport

1. Route type: Combined.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Object of ascent: Peak 4870 m.
4. Category of difficulty: 4A — category of difficulty (approximate), first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 580 m,

The ascent from the base camp, located on the right bank of the Kara-su River, goes along the main slope towards the rock ridge to the left of the North Peak 3800. The approach to the start of the route (the foot of the West Wall of the peak) takes 1.5 hours.

Brief description of the route sections

Section R0–R1. Talus-filled couloir leading to the buttress. Bypass the twin pinnacle on the right. 150 m, 35°. Section R1–R2. Along the damaged rocky buttress, exit to the North Ridge to the right of the ridge. 200 m, 40°–50°, diff. cat. II. Section R2–R3. The destroyed rocky ridge leads to the North Peak.

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin valley.
3. Peak "4520", via the right part of the NW wall.
4. Category 6B proposed, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 1485 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1275 m, including 645 m of 6B category. The average slope of the route is 70° (3420-4520). The average slope of the wall part of the route is 76° (3420-4340).
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Peak Odessa (4810)

Route via the Eastern wall (Vedernikov, 1989), 6A cat. Completed during the 2014 Russia Championship in the full-time technical class in Karavshin Team from Moscow:

• Yurkin A.V. (Master of Sports)
• Kravets K.V. (1st sports category) Report compiled by Yurkin A.V.

General information about the route