Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing area — Southwest Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Climbing route — First ascent of the north face of Peak Pathor 6083 m
4. Climbing characteristics: Height difference 1520 m. Average slope 65°. Length of difficult sections 700 m.
5. Number of pitons: Rock pitons 163, ice pitons 55
6. Total climbing hours 69 h
7. Number of nights 5, including two semi-sitting nights.

Composition

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Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

The vehicular part of the journey to the Luknitskogo Peak area ends in the Sekd village, which is located on the road running along the Shakhdara River. It is possible to travel from Khorog through Roshtkala, as well as from the Pamir Highway Osh-Khorog through Jilandy-Dzhauhangos-Sovetabad. From the Sekd village to the expedition's base camp, a convenient and safe pedestrian and caravan trail leads, as this is a pasture area. The trail goes along the left (orographic) side of the Asham River, which flows into a lake located at the foot of the Asham peak, giving its name to the entire area. From the Sekd village to a suitable base camp location in a small grove on the lake's shore is 5-6 hours. The western wall of Asham and the northern wall of Luknitskogo Peak limit a fairly large glacier for this area with a significant firn feeding zone. The river (I) flowing from this glacier flows into the lake. From the base camp by the Asham lake, along the right (orographic) bank of river I, up to its source (2 hours). From the glacier tongue, a steep ascent to the left along the average talus, then along the lateral moraine, leads to the ascent to the unnamed glacier of p. Asham and p. Luknitskogo (1 hour 30 minutes). The closed glacier is crossed from the top of the median moraine in the direction of the start of the route (40 minutes).

Route Characteristics Table

16.04.85

Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Climbing area: South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range (Vakhan Range), 5449 m (Audra)
3. Ascent route: via the southern ridge
4. Climb characteristics:
   • First ascent, proposed category 1B
   • Route length — 800 m
   • Elevation gain — 600 m

For the championship of the central council of the Zenit sports society Class of high-altitude technical ascents p. Babel (6007 m). By the South-Western counterfort 5B cat. diff. (South-Western Pamir). Team of the Moscow Regional Council of the Zenit Sports Society Gorbatov B.N. — team leader (Kalinin) Ivanov V.Ya. (Kaliningrad, my) Korenev E.A. Lunov V.S. Soinov A.I. Zhukovsky, mo

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Shakhdarin Range, southwestern Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Pik Bagritskogo, 5700 m, via the southwest wall with exit to the summit along the northwest counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4Bk/tr.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1100 m average steepness — 58°; rocks — 69°; ice — 48°. Length of sections: R1 — 80 m, R2 — 290 m, R3 — 215 m, R4 — 385 m, R5 — 180 m.
6. Pitons driven:

Brief Description of the Area

The Soviet Pamir is divided into three parts:

• eastern,
• central,
• western. The central part of the Pamir is a highly elevated desert plateau, with destroyed mountains of 5000–5500 m height. The plateau is surrounded by chains of high mountains with sharply dissected relief. The Western part of the Pamir differs sharply from the Central Pamir. Comparatively low northern slopes of the ridge with calmly flowing rivers suddenly abut against the sheer walls of the main ridge. This part of the Pamir remains a poorly studied area. The goal of the Russian Spartak expedition was:
• more detailed study of this area,
• educational and sports high-altitude ascents,

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area — SW Pamir, Shakhdara Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: peak Moskovskaya Pravda 6075 m, N-E wall. /variant/
4. Anticipated category — 6th category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1180 m, length of sections with 5B, 6th category of difficulty — 1325 m, wall steepness 83°.
6. Number of pitons used: 464.
   • for belaying: rock 238, ice 19, bolt 3.
   • for artificial climbing aids (ITО): rock 226, bolt 1.
7. Number of climbing hours — 118.

Passport

I. Technical climbing category 2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge (southern spur) 3. Pik Moskovskoy Pravdy, main summit 6075 m. 4. 6B (presumably) 5. Height difference 1300 m. 6. Length of sections 5 and 6 cat. diff. – 1020 m (5 – 690, 6 – 330) 7. Average steepness 71–72° 8. Pitons hammered: rock 142, ice 9, bolt 2, chocks 185; used for belays: rock 44, bolt 2, chocks 73. 9. Climbing hours — 49.5

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

158. Songuti Malaya (3800 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by A. Akopyan, category 3A, difficulty level, fig. 33). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms near Turie Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156. From the platforms, ascend via scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier towards the saddle of the Tsey Ridge between the peaks of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-TsEYSKIY to the left. From the glacier, on the left side of the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches possible), to the right of the "ram's foreheads," ascend to the saddle between Malaya Songuti and Burevestnik. On the saddle, turn right and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Malaya Songuti peak. Ascend 15-20 m via simple rocks along the ridge. Then, traverse via ledges, partly via moderately difficult rocks (belaying required), bypass the "Trezubets" gendarme to the left and reach the snowy saddle under the II gendarme - "Bashnya." From under "Bashnya":

• descend 20-30 m to the left via a wide couloir;
• continue traversing via simple, partly moderately difficult rocks on the left side to bypass "Bashnya" (belaying required);
• reach the saddle of the East Ridge under the East gendarme. From the saddle:
• bypass the East gendarme to the left with a slight descent;