- Songuti Malaya (3800 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by A. Akopyan, category 3A, difficulty level, fig. 33).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms near Turie Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156.
From the platforms, ascend via scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier towards the saddle of the Tsey Ridge between the peaks of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-TsEYSKIY to the left. From the glacier, on the left side of the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches possible), to the right of the "ram's foreheads," ascend to the saddle between Malaya Songuti and Burevestnik.
On the saddle, turn right and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Malaya Songuti peak. Ascend 15-20 m via simple rocks along the ridge. Then, traverse via ledges, partly via moderately difficult rocks (belaying required), bypass the "Trezubets" gendarme to the left and reach the snowy saddle under the II gendarme - "Bashnya."
From under "Bashnya":
- descend 20-30 m to the left via a wide couloir;
- continue traversing via simple, partly moderately difficult rocks on the left side to bypass "Bashnya" (belaying required);
- reach the saddle of the East Ridge under the East gendarme.
From the saddle:
- bypass the East gendarme to the left with a slight descent;
- ascend 60-70 m via a narrow couloir (rockfall, "live" rocks - piton belay) to the saddle of the East Ridge under the peak tower of the East gendarme.
From the saddle (piton belay), ascend 20 m straight up via steep, moderately difficult rocks, then 5-6 m to the right via a smooth slab to a vertical crack. Ascend 15-20 m up the crack to a small ledge. From the ledge, rappel and continue ascending via moderately difficult rocks to reach the East gendarme. From the East gendarme, ascend via the sharp rocky ridge, then via a 3-meter chimney to reach the summit of Malaya Songuti. 7-8 hours from the lake.
Descend via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days.
Literature:
- Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport," 1976.
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