Moscow City Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Russian Championship 2018

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

Teams from the MAI Alpine Club

Peak Gaikomd, 3192 m, left part of the SE wall, Dorro route, 2003, 6A category of difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9 — Caucasus, from Kreстовый Pass to Shaviklde peak;
2. Gaikomd, 3192 m, left part of the SE wall;
3. Category of difficulty — 6A;

Report

on the ascent of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi) peak, 3171 m, via the left part of the SE-wall (K. Dorro route), 6A cat. diff., from October 29 to October 31, 2020 2020

I. Ascent Report

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi Gl.) via the route on the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro) 6A category of complexity by the team from the Moscow Region from June 6 to 7, 2024.

I. Ascent Report

REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF MOSCOW REGION"

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2024 year

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent made by the team of GK UAL Moscow Region – Perm Krai to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi), 3171 m via the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro's route), 6A category of complexity, from 04.06.2024 to 04.06.2024 Cherepovets 2024 ASCENT DOCUMENT | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich (CMS) |

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2017

Technical Class

Report

On the first ascent of the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai–1 to the summit of Gaikomd, 3171 m, via the SE wall. First ascent, approximately 6A category. Team Leader: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich Team Members:

• Loginov Igor Alexandrovich

Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Remote Championship of Russia in Alpinism

2018

Snow and Ice Class

Report

On the second ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team - 3 to the peak Gaikomd Glavny, 3171 m, via the SE wall on Zhigalov's route, 6A category of complexity. Team Leader: Evgeny S. Korulin Participants:

• Alexander V. Verbitsky

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shanavan ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — p. 3781 m (CHIRA), via North ridge
4. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1700 m; b) route length — 2600 m; c) average steepness of the route — 45°
5. Pitons hammered for belaying (I.T.O.): rock — 12

1. Climbing category — technically challenging.
2. Area 2.9 (from the Perevalny Krepost to the village of Pan); Chauhi mountain range.
3. Traverse of peaks Leonidze (3773 m) — Japaridze (3733 m) with ascent via the South-West edge of peak Leonidze.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m; average steepness of the edge on ascent — 60°; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. totals — 60 m.
6. Only rock pitons were used during the ascent along the edge. A total of 34 pitons were hammered in. 3 of them were used to create artificial footholds (ladders).
7. To complete the route from the base camp near three stones and back, 13.5 hours were spent in good weather conditions. Of these:

• approach to the route — 2.5 hours;
• ascent along the D-3 edge of peak Leonidze — 6 hours;

I.­ Rock climbing category.

Caucasus, east of the Kre­stovyy pass (Kistinsky gorge). 2. 3620 m, Western ridge, snow-rock. 3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 4. Route characteristics: 5. height difference — 350 m, average steepness — 40° pitons hammered: rock 7 pcs., used stoppers: 2 times. 6. Number of walking hours: 4 hours. 7. Number of overnight stays: none. 8. Climbing leader

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features:

• To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls.
• To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants: