Klabo — a technical route in the Pamir-Alay mountain system, the northern spurs of the Alay Ridge, the Gumush gorge, the West Gumush peak, height — 5200 m above sea level, along the center of the north face (S. Efimov's route). Classified as 5B category of difficulty (official), proposed — 6 category of difficulty. Main characteristics of the route:

• Length — 1400 m
• Height difference — 1100–1200 m
• Average steepness — 70°–75°
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 875 m Number of pitons hammered and placement elements used:
• Placement elements — 63
• Rock pitons — 58
• Ice pitons — 120

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley 3. Peak 5200 (Gaumysh) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Elevation gain — 1100 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 580 m of 6 category. Average steepness 75–80°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 55 + XXXI, ice — 88 + XXI, bolt — V, chockstones — 20 + III. 7. Travel time: 46.5 hours 8. Overnights:

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Valery Ryumin Peak, 4630 m, via the northeast wall. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, 600 m, 70°. Length of sections with 5+6 difficulty category, average steepness. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 70 rock + 10 chocks + 5 ice. For artificial points: rock —

Brief explanations for the table

Section R0–R1. In the lower part of the couloir, the main slope is covered with dense snow; in the upper part, it's a snow-covered ice slope. The snow holds well; insurance is provided through an ice axe. Section R1–R2. The first bastion is traversed along an icy, snow-covered ledge; insurance is provided through pitons; climbing is of medium difficulty. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4:

• Upwards to the right, a steep, icy slab with a gap in the middle
• Climbing is very difficult, relying on friction (there are very few holds)
• Insurance is provided through pitons; there are few cracks for piton placement Section R4–R5. A system of main snow-covered and icy ledges and "ram's foreheads." Movement is straight up towards the base of a destroyed counterfort (start of the second bastion). Section R5–R6. Up the right part of the counterfort directly under the yellow wall of the second bastion, along steep, destroyed rocks and a cleft. Climbing is difficult; in the middle part of the counterfort, on a small platform, is the I control point. Section R6–R7. Monolithic sections of the wall are interspersed with "tiled" rock formations. The section is traversed:

Difficult, belay on pitons. Sections IО — II, II — I2. Along the left part of the ruined wall straight up under the iced crack with a plug, on the right remains a rocky cornice. The crack is passed using ladders, climbing is very difficult due to non-solid ice. Sections I2 — I3, I3 — I4. Further to the right along the shelf under the wide crack and left-upwards along the crack to the base of a small grey wall. Climbing is difficult, "live rocks!", belay is only on pitons. Sections R4–R5, R5–R6. The grey wall is climbed straight up, further to the right upwards

Ascent Passport № 20

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Alay ridge, northern spur
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 5100 m via the counterfort of the North face
4. Proposed category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1200 m
   • height difference of the wall section — 1100 m
   • length of sections: IV difficulty category — 855 m, V difficulty category — 805 m, VI difficulty category — 90 m
   • average steepness of the wall section — 64°

ASCENT PASS.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area: Alay mountain range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Gaumysh peak, 5367 m via the spur on the north face p. 5100.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference — 1300 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 850 m; average steepness of the wall — 60°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 52, ice — 80, chocks — 4.
7. Total hours of climbing — 52.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 — lying on a snow-ice slope;

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, Pamir range, Kichik-Alay
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pik Bratyev Kadomtsyevyx, 4670 m, via the right part of the northwest face
4. Expected difficulty category 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section 540 m, total 770 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 603 m. Average steepness 71°
6. Pitons used: for belaying on rock — 166 ice — 6 bolted —

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kisik-Alay ridge.
3. Brothers Kadomtsev peak via the central buttress of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category, combined.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m sections of 5–6 category difficulty: 420 m, average steepness: 68°
6. Number of pitons hammered, protection placed:
   • for belaying:

I. Class — technical 2. Region — Kichik-Alay ridge 3. Peak — №4280 m. First ascent via N concrete and 3 mixed terrain 4. Proposed difficulty category — A 5. Height difference — 780 m. Length of sections with III–IV natural difficulty — m. Average steepness of technically difficult sections — 58° 6. Ryuchev Curl: