25

Peak Kovshovykh (Central), 5800 m

via the central ridge of the western wall, combined, category 5A difficulty

Description of the First Ascent

made on August 8-10, 1968 by a group of climbers participating in the high-altitude alpinist gathering of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society, led by Galchenko V.B. The description was compiled by:

• Galchenko V.B.
• Konev V.F.
• Silchenko S.L. with the participation of the coach-consultant, Master of Sports of the USSR, Levin M.S.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Vanch.
3. Ascent route — Peak Kolesnik S.V. (height 5452 m above sea level) via the Southwest ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: Height difference — from overnight stay (3900 m) to the summit — 1550 m. Average steepness — 55°. Length of the complex section — 500 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 20,

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range
3. Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the left counterfort from Stalin Glacier
4. Proposed – category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length – 5300 m Rock section elevation gain 1780 m, length of rock section – 2320 m Length of grade 5–6 sections – 540 m Average steepness of the rock section – 51°
6. Pitons used: rock 94, chocks 85, ice screws 16

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Region — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Communism, 7495 m, via the left buttress of the SW wall. V. Onishchenko, 1970.
4. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., second ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 2595 m, length — 2870 m (to reaching the summit ridge). Average steepness of the main part of the route — 64° (5400–7200 m), including 6B cat. diff. 90° (6020–6140 m), 80° (6370–6460 m), 80° (200 m long on other sections), total 6B cat. diff. — 420 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :-------- |

Passport

4.1.57 Peak Kommunizma from the northern ridge with ascent to BPP via the northern spur of Peak Kirova (up to BPP, then Peak Kirova 6372 m) V. Bezzubkin, 71, 6A cat.

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Pamir. Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the northern ridge with ascent to BPP via the northern spur of Peak Kirova.
4. Proposed - 6A cat., combination.
5. Route type: Combined.
6. Height difference of the main part of the route (up to BPP): ≈1600 m Length of the main part of the route (up to BPP): ≈2000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 60°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 670 m, 6th category difficulty: 85 m.
7. Pitons left on the route: total: 2, including bolted: 0.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Peak — Peak "E. Korzhenevskoi" 7105 m, via the South Ridge from Moskvin Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–7105 m, section length 5 km – 60 m, average steepness of the route 42°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying SK-16, ice screws 2, for creating anchor points — 2 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — three, two bivouacs were set up on the ridge by cutting part of the snowy ridge and laying out stone platforms.
9. Team

Introduction

Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya is the fourth highest seven-thousander in the country (7105 m). Despite being near Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), Peak Evgenia looks very majestic. Its giant summit dome is visible from the Zaalaysky ridge pass from Ters-Agar to Khodzha-Toо. The approaches to it are very difficult:

• The path is blocked by the mighty river of the Pamir - Muk-su;
• But the difficulties do not end there: the path along the left (orogr.) side of Muk-su is often blocked by deep, steep-walled sairs cut by turbulent rivers originating from the glaciers of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First ridges. The approaches to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya are relatively simple only along the valley of the Mushketov Glacier; from here it looks dazzlingly magnificent. The approach along the Ayu-Dzhilga valley is difficult: the river flows in a narrow canyon. But even having overcome the difficulties of approaching the Ayu-Dzhilga Glacier, one will not feel relief: the path to Peak Evgenia leads up steep, artificially polished black walls. The path along the Fortambek valley is blocked by a canyon of the river only in one place. All routes to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya that have been completed so far start from the Fortambek valley. It is precisely the inaccessibility of the summit that EXPLAINS the rare expeditions aimed at conquering it. Without helicopters, this undertaking is extremely cumbersome. Currently, there are several helicopter landing sites at the foot of the peak, and therefore interest in this summit has increased significantly. Six different routes have been completed, but it cannot be said that the peak is fully explored and climbing it is not challenging. A characteristic feature of most of these high-altitude routes is the high demands they make on the technical preparation of climbers.

Climbing Passport:

1. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
2. Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, via SW ridge (V. Markelov, 1984)
3. Climbing category — 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m Length of sections: category V — 30 m Average slope:

• main part of the route — 60°

Climbing Route Description

in the Central Pamir region on peak Krasnoarmeitsev (conditional name), peak 4710 m, via the Southwest Counterfort, via route 3A category of difficulty (approximately) by the group of LGS DSO "Spartak" gathering: team leader Razumov Yu.M. — 1st sports category, Vostrova I.A. — 1st sports category, Baybara V.S. — 2nd sports category, Sayfutdinov R.L. — 2nd sports category (Osh city, "Spartak"). 1974

Ascent Record

(Nesendag from Vakhchag Pass, Category 1B difficulty)

1. Type of Ascent Combined
2. Ascent Area 2.9. Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its Height, and Route Nesendag (3925 m), from Vakhchag Pass
4. Anticipated Difficulty Category 1B