Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.

Fig. 34

1. Ascent to Peak Ine (3409 m) from the northeast — category 2A difficulty (Fig. 34)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Dombayskoye valley to the old moraine opposite the Ine glacier — there is a signpost. From the signpost to the right, across the bridge over the Dombay river and to the left of the "ram's foreheads" up the grassy slopes. Further along the scree to the glacier and on it (in teams) to the "red rocks". Then up the moraine to the glacier bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 4–5 hours. From the bivouac, ascent along the glacier to a snowfield with a slope of 35–40° and along it up to the right to a gap in the north-eastern ridge of Peak Ine. From the gap up to the left

Fig. 1

1. Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1)

The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack

Fig. 3

1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)

From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak (height, name) - Marukh-Kaya, 3700 m, northeast wall. 4. Proposed category of complexity - 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 700 m; average steepness - 60°; length of sections - 55 m, 5-6 pitches. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creation of I.T.O. rock - 22 ice - bolts -

Fig. 27

1. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Amanauz (3757 m) from the Amanauzsky Pass — category 3b difficulty (Fig. 27)

From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek River and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz River. Crossing to the right bank, then:

• along the moraine,
• through the "barany lby" to the Amanauzsky Glacier,
• along the glacier to the terminal moraine below the West Amanauz Glacier. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3–4 hours. Further (in rope teams!), ascent to the Amanauzsky Pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofruju. Ascent on the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier. In the upper part, under the slopes of Zub Sofruju peak, one should move to the middle of the glacier due to possible firn avalanches from the slopes of Zub Sofruju. The exit to the pass is via a bergschrund on a steep (50°) snowy slope — 120 m (belaying!), slightly to the left of a rock outcrop. There is a bivouac site on the pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 8–9 hours. From the pass, along the несложным скалам (easy rocks) of the western ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right and continue along the ridge to the red gendarme.

8.6.1.12

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Ganeshinga Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Name of the peak: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — «Molotok».
3. Proposed — 5A cat. difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 390 (by altimeter). Route length: 490 m. Section length:
   • V cat. difficulty — 124 m.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
   • bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17