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Description of the passage of a 6A category route to the top of Sauk-Jailyau via the West face in Pamir-Alay.

Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall, 6A cat. (Onysko route) Pamiro-Alai 5.1.1. Alai Ridge

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alai, Archa-Kanysh valley.
  3. Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall.
  4. 6A cat. (3rd ascent)
  5. Height difference 1330 Wall section height difference 980 Average steepness of the wall section 73°. Route length 1440.
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Ascent to Main Sauk-Jailau via Central Peak by the northern wall, 6 cat. difficulty, 2603 m, 8 days, led by Kovtun V. G.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Alay range — 5.1
  3. Peak, its height, route — Main Sauk-Dzhaylyau via Central peak with ascent to Central peak via northern wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
    • to Central peak — 1505 m
    • to Main peak — 198 m Total height difference of wall section — 1703 m
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Ascent report on the Sons (5100 m) peak via the North wall in the Alay range, category of difficulty 5B, describing the route and its stages.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 102

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge
  3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height approximately 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — approximately 1100 m. average slope: 55° section lengths: 2nd difficulty category – 160 m, 3rd difficulty category – 190 m, 4th difficulty category – 300 m, 5th difficulty category – 590 m, 6th difficulty category – 40 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Ascent report on Peak Synovey (5100 m) via the North wall in the Alay ridge, category of difficulty 5B, the route taken and its features.

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Alai Range
  3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height about 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 1100 m, average steepness: 55°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 160 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 190 m, 4th cat. diff. — 300 m, 5th cat. diff. — 590 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 49
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Description of the ascent route to Titov Peak via the northern counterfort, complexity category 4B, with details of passage and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Podkova Kosmonavtov. 3. Titov Peak (approximately 4800 m) via the northern counterfort. 4. 4B category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 700 m; b) length of section with IV–V category of difficulty 350 m; c) average steepness 53°. 6. Pitons hammered for belay and creating ITO:

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uzbekistan (5100 m) via the north wall, difficulty category 5B, climbed in 1980 by a team led by Pershin Valery Nikolaevich.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven:

Piton typeFor belayFor creating ITO
Rock91
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Ascent to the summit of Payt (4916 m) in the Alay Range via N.N.E wall, category III 5B, technically challenging.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Pik Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E wall by Ovcharov's route (recognized route).
  4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 40 m, 3rd-4th difficulty category — 445 m, 5th difficulty category — 585 m, 6th difficulty category — 60 m.
  6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 6, chocks — 110.
  7. Number of climbing hours: 15
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs.
  9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their sports qualification:
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Ascent record of Shait Peak (4916 m) via North-East Face, category 5B difficulty grade, climbed by a team led by Gennadiy Shumikhin in 1979.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, route: p. Shait, 4916 m, ascent via the NE wall: via Moiseevtsev's path (officially recognized)
  4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average steepness 65°; section lengths: 4th diff. cat. — 535 m, 5th diff. cat. — 560 m, 6th diff. cat. — 65 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 47, ice — 8, protection — 33;
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### Description of the 6A category route to the summit of Paatt (4916 m) via the Northeast Wall A detailed analysis of the team's tactics and characteristics of the route sections.

Passport

I. Class: TECHNICAL 2. Region: PAMIR-ALAI, ALAISKY ridge 3. Peak: SHAIT (4916 m), via the Northeast face 4. Route complexity category: 6A 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 938 m, Average slope: 65°. Section lengths:

  • 4th category complexity — 35 m
  • 5th category complexity — 910 m
  • 6th category complexity — 90 m
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aidarsok (5127 m) via the North Ridge, difficulty category 5A, climbed in 1977 by a group of climbers led by I.K. Korenev.

  1. Climbing class — technical
  2. Climbing area, ridge — Alai Ridge, Pamir-Alai
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aidarbek, 5127 m, via the North Ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 100 m
    • length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 250 m
    • average steepness: 55°
  6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating IC:
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