REPORT

On the first ascent of a group of climbers from Kaliningrad, Moscow Region, to the unnamed peak 4740 m from the ridge (Peak Kaliningrad, route category 2B)

Location: Tian-Shan, western part of the Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge, Chon-Tura-Su gorge area Date: Group composition:

1. Kremena V.P. — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
2. Kurshin A.P. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports 1st rope
3. Glazchenko V.I. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports
4. Okhrimenko S.V. — participant, Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Tau ridge.
3. Peak — p. Krylya Sovetov via the north ridge.
4. Proposed category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1300 m. Length of sections with 3–4 category difficulty — 1750 m, 5 category difficulty — 480 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 43°, Entire route — 37°.

2014 Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude technical class Report on the ascent of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing team to Kyzyl-Asker peak (5842 m) via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace," first ascent, approximately 6B category. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A. Moscow 2014

Kyzyl-Asker via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent region: Tian Shan, Western Kok-Shaal-Too

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY ALPINISM FEDERATION

2016 Russian Championship in Alpinism

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

On the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory: Peak Kyzyl-Asker 5842 m via the center of the southeast wall, "Kop'e" route Proposed grade:

• 6B category of difficulty
• First ascent Krasnoyarsk 2016

Russian Championship in Alpinism High-Altitude Technical Class 2018

Report

On ascending peak Kyzyl-Asker via the central spur of the southeast wall — "Franco-Belgian" variant. By the team from St. Petersburg. 2nd ascent. Proposed 6B category of complexity. From July 25 to August 3, 2018. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team leader: Nagaev R.R. Team members:

• Matinyan A.A.
• Trikozov V.M. St. Petersburg, 2018

Ascent Details

Report

On the first ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Kyzyl-Asker, 5842 m via the South Ridge (approximately 6B category) Team Leader: Evgeny G. Murin Team Member: Ilya N. Penyayev Coach: Tatyana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg 2018 Climbing Passport

1. General Information 1.1 Murin Evgeny G. Master of Sports

Ascent to the peak of Maron from the north (2A cat. difficulty)

From the camp located on a flat gravel site in front of the peak Iсследователей and Чон-Турасу, we head through the ridges of old lateral moraines to the NNE ridge of the peak. x) Description compiled by A. Perelman. The ridge itself, starting from the snowy part downwards, is even and only has a dip in one place, shaped like an inverted letter "П". The ridge is bordered on both sides by sheer cliffs. On the eastern side, a talus slope stretches under the ridge, while on the western side lies the Maron glacier. We skirt the ridge from the north along a steep, rocky, grassy slope (45–50°). It's best to ascend gradually, without descending to the grassy clearing with a cirque in the Chon-Turasu valley. The stream flowing from the Maron glacier remains to the right of the path in a canyon. After 300 m of ascent, we reach the lower, flat part of the cirque. The stream flows between boulders. To the left are grassy slopes (under the ridge), while to the right, a long and narrow moraine begins. The moraine goes to the left, southwest. Between the moraine and the foot of the wall, a 300 m wide tongue begins. The tongue extends under the surface moraine. To the right of the moraine, a large talus cirque opens up, with a pass saddle visible in its upper part. The moraine abuts a rock at its upper end, which is quite weathered and crumbling. The glacier in this area widens to 500–600 m. It's heavily littered, covered in dirt, rocks, and sand, and is crisscrossed by streams. Further on, the rock expands into a low rocky spur, apparently descending from the peak Февральской революции. At the lower part of the rock, at a height of two meters, there's a small, very even, sandy and pebbly platform. It's well-protected from the wind and dry. We hammer in several pitons and set up a tent on ice axes. The approach to the overnight stay took less than 5 hours.

ASCENT TO PIK MARONA VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE (cat. grade 3A) 2729 From the camp located on a flat, gravelly area of the upper modern erosion base of the Issledovateley and Chon-Turasu glaciers, we head towards the NNE rock ridge of Pik Marona, situated between the Chon-Turasu river and the Marona glacier. We cross ridges of old lateral moraines and, after 15 minutes, approach the slope of the ridge at a point where a powerful talus slope descends from under the rocky ridge. To the left remain:

• massive rock outcrops of black-green rock,
• scree slopes of fine gravel stretching from them. We ascend directly up the talus slope to a rock wall, then move:
• first along the slope,
• then along terraces upwards along the wall,
• across fine scree, clay soils, and occasionally easy rock. After 2 hours of ascent, we reach the end of the terrace. This location is easily identifiable by two small caves, and the terrace almost immediately ends.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Neru – Western Pobeda.
4. Complexity category — 6B (approximate).
5. Ascent characteristics: route length — approx. 10450 m. height difference — 2750 m. average steepness up to the northern shoulder of Peak Neru — 60°.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the peak Novy (Novey) 4798 m. Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too (41° 5′43.84″ N, 77°31′32.83″ E)

via the northern ridge "Masterpiece" First ascent Presumably 2B category of complexity Grigoryev D.R. + 6

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Grigoryev Dmitry Rurikovich, 1st sports category. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, 6-y Kozhukhovskaya st., 18, bld. 1, apt. 19. rurikovichd@gmail.com, +7 903 145 88 61
2. Golovchenko Dmitry Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V.
3. Nilov Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V.