19. Passismta via the North Face (combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 5, 6). From Tskhsinitskali Glacier (№ 18), ascend the snowy-ice slope to the bergschrund below Passismta's North Face. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep ice-snow slope for 80–100 m (avalanche risk, pitons) to the lower crevasse, which is traversed using snow bridges (piton usage). Continue 200–300 m up a steep ice-snow slope (avalanche risk, pitons) to the upper crevasse, which is more easily traversed on the left. Then ascend 150–200 m up and left on the ice-snow slope (belay) under the icy rock couloir on the left side of the summit tower. Ascend 60–80 m up the steep couloir of moderate difficulty (piton usage) to reach the Northeast Ridge. Turn right here and ascend via the snowy plateau and easy broken rocks to the summit of Passismta. 4–7 hours from the glacier.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

143. Tikhtengen South via the Eastern ridge (route is combined, T. Longstaff, cat.4B, fig. 20, 23). From the initial bivouac on Tsanner flats (item 141) move across the plateau towards the snowy couloir of the Eastern ridge of Tikhtengen saddle, to the right of the steep ascent to pyramidal IV and three small gendarmes. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 200-250 m up the snowy couloir to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend rocks of above average difficulty, then ascend snowy rocks of average difficulty of the Eastern ridge to reach the I gendarme. Further,

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical (wall). 2. Ascent area: Main Caucasus Range from the south, area of Semi pass – Tsanner pass. 3. Ascent route: Tikhtengen, South summit 4611 m via the South-East wall. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference to the summit 1000 m, wall height difference 900 m, average slope of the entire route 65°, average slope of the wall proper 70°, length of complex sections 560 m (including very complex ones 370 m) 5. Pitons driven: rock — 116, ice — 4, ladder usage — 11 times 6. Number of walking hours: processing 140 m — 3 hours. 1st day — 13 hours, 2nd day — 11 hours, 3rd day — 12 hours, descent — 14 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

51. Fytnergyn via Western Ridge

(combined route, Yu. Porokhnya, category III, fig. 5, 8). Follow the Northwest cirque plateau (point 45) to reach the broad ice-and-snow slope of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. 1.5–2 hours from Zeskho Pass. From the plateau, keeping to the rocks on the left side, cross the bergschrund and ascend 200–250 m up the ice-and-snow slope (avalanche risk, protection) to the right side of the Western Ridge saddle of Fytnergyn. About 1 hour from the plateau. Here, turn right and ascend 40 m up easy rocks of the Western Ridge to the base of the first pinnacle. Traverse it on the left and then ascend steep moderate rocks («loose» stones, pitons) to the Western Ridge. Then follow 200 m along easy, crumbling ridge rocks to the second pinnacle (crux). Ascend 40–45 m up moderate rocks of the Western Ridge (piton protection) to the second pinnacle. From it, descend 3–4 m to a connecting ridge, from which traverse 15–20 m to the left of the third pinnacle along a ledge. Then ascend 30 m up a sheer icy chimney or, left of it, up smooth moderate slabs («live» pitons) to the Western Ridge at the third pinnacle. Further, follow easy, crumbling, snowy (cornices), occasionally steep Western Ridge, overcoming the fourth pinnacle head-on, to reach easy snowy rocks below the summit rise. Ascend a simple, narrow, 30-meter ice-and-snow Western Ridge, then a steep, 50–60-meter ice-and-snow northern slope (protection) of the rise, and finally a steep, easy, 8–10-meter rocky section to reach the summit of Fytnergyn. 6–8 hours from the plateau. Fig. 8.

Anniversary Climbing Event on the Central Caucasus, dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Victory

1995

Rock Climbing Category

Report

• On the first ascent to the summit of Fytargin, 4184 m, via the south-eastern counterfort
• Of the southern spur, approximately 4B category of difficulty, by a sports group from Dnipropetrovsk
• August 14, 1995 Leader: Banya A.V.

Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

59. Chyornaia Neznakomka via South Ridge (combined route, L. Akhvlediani, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 9). Before the Moraine Platforms (point 41), turn left into a grassy, scree slope-couloir. From here, go straight up for 700–800 m along a broad scree couloir that sharply narrows at the top. From the couloir, ascend a snow-ice slope, then climb rocks of medium difficulty to reach the South Ridge of Chyornaia Neznakomka peak. Turn right here and follow easy rocks with short ascents along the South Ridge to reach some platforms. Make your base camp on the platforms. The trip from the "Zesho" alpine camp takes 5–7 hours. From the platforms, ascend 60–80 m along easy, broken rocks, then along the snowy South Ridge to a small 1st gendarme; bypass it via snowy scree, and then continue along the easy South Ridge to the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 80–100 m to the right of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pointed triangular rock gendarmes along the steep, snowy-icy slope of the Left couloir (loose rocks, pitons), and then ascend a 4–5-meter wall with a cleft to reach the South Ridge. Climb 40 m along rocks of medium difficulty on the South Ridge to a large triangular wall. Below the wall, turn right and then ascend 150–200 m up a snowy-icy couloir under the cover of the wall (loose rocks) to the right rock wall. Climb rocks of medium difficulty (loose rocks, pitons) 30–40 m up the wall to a shoulder. Turn left here and ascend 150–200 m up a broad, snowy-icy couloir (belays) to a saddle on the West Ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow an easy 100–120-meter, snowy-icy (cornice) West Ridge to the summit of Chyornaia Neznakomka. The trip from the base camp takes 4–5 hours.

ASCENT TO PIK ALESHI DZAPARIDZE “Chornaya Neznakomka” via the southern wall. 79 Pik Aleshi Dzaparidze, 4100 m high, is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks Tsurungal and Belaya Neznakomka. To the north of the summit lies the cirque of the Ailaminskiy glacier, its slopes covered with ice with occasional outcrops of rocks. To the south, the summit drops almost vertically in a rock wall. From the ridge between the peaks Chornaya and Belaya Neznakomka, a series of almost parallel steep rock buttresses descends. Below them, closer to Belaya Neznakomka, lies the Zes-Lo glacier, from which a long, 100–120 m wide, snow-ice couloir ascends almost parallel to the ridge to Pik A. Dzaparidze, with a slope of 25–30° and a series of deep gullies. A nearly vertical rock rib leading directly to the summit divides this couloir into two branches:

• The left couloir, as you ascend, sharply increases its steepness and ends in a narrow rock couloir with formed ice, leading to the central rib. This couloir is very dangerous due to constant rockfall.
• The right couloir, bypassing the central rib to the right, is located between it and the adjacent ridge buttress and ends under the rocks of the main ridge. Its steepness increases from bottom to top from 45–50° to 75–80°. The couloir is entirely icy, with deep (up to 5 m) gullies. During the day, the couloir is prone to rockfall. The group consisted of three instructors and one participant from the “Ailamf” alpine camp, members of the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the “Trud” sports society. The ascent was made during a reconnaissance trip to the Zes-Lo area to explore the region. The path from the “Ailamf” alpine camp goes down the road through the villages Kurundashi and Tsanya to the trail leading to the Zes-Lo gorge to the village of the same name and further to the river flowing from the glacier,