Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing area — Southwest Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Climbing route — First ascent of the north face of Peak Pathor 6083 m
4. Climbing characteristics: Height difference 1520 m. Average slope 65°. Length of difficult sections 700 m.
5. Number of pitons: Rock pitons 163, ice pitons 55
6. Total climbing hours 69 h
7. Number of nights 5, including two semi-sitting nights.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Asham 5982 m via the SW wall, category 5B difficulty. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range. MOSCOW 1977

Map of the Area

Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Climbing Conditions

The Asham peak, 5982 m, is located in the western part of the Shakhdarin Range in the South-Western Pamir, between the peaks p. Granatovyi 5700 m to the east and Bezymanaya 5891 m to the west. The Luknitskiy glacier, which is relatively calm, flows from the cirque formed by the peaks Asham, Bezymanaya, and p. Luknitskiy. The flow of this glacier feeds into Lake Zardiv, which is one of the sources of the Sezh river that flows into the full-flowing Shakhdara near the settlement of Sezh.

16.04.85

Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Climbing area: South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range (Vakhan Range), 5449 m (Audra)
3. Ascent route: via the southern ridge
4. Climb characteristics:
   • First ascent, proposed category 1B
   • Route length — 800 m
   • Elevation gain — 600 m

Description

FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 6007 M via the south-west wall (South-Western Pamir) (Peak I. Babel, Odessa, 1967)

Brief geological and geographical characteristics of the area

The mighty Pyanj River has carved a deep valley in the rocks, dividing two mountain systems: — Pamir — Hindu Kush Flowing in a winding course, it runs along the Shakhdarin Range — the southern boundary of Pamir, as if skirting it from the south. The Shakhdarin Range stretches for 350 km from southwest to northeast, reaching its highest heights with peaks Karl Marx — 6726 m and Engels — 6310 m, located near the confluence of the Vakhsh-Darya River and Pyanj. The peaks of Marx and Engels form a powerful mountain node with a fairly large area of glaciation — about 140 sq. km.

Report on the Ascent of Peak Babel via the Southwest Wall, Category 5A

The object of the 1972 expedition by the Moscow Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society was the Shakhdarin Ridge in the Southwestern Pamir. The Shakhdarin Ridge runs along the Pyanj River from west to east. Beyond the Pyanj and the Pamir River, the mountains of the Hindu Kush and the spurs of the Karakum are visible. To the left of the upper reaches of the Vakhan-Darya River, the highest point of the Vakhan Ridge, Peak Snowy Massif, is visible. At the confluence of the Pamir and Vakhan-Darya rivers, which form the Pyanj River, the Shakhdarin Ridge bends to the northeast. It is here that the most beautiful and highest peaks of the ridge are located:

• Peak Karl Marx, 6726 m (first ascent in 1946 by an expedition led by E. Abalakov);
• Peak Friedrich Engels, 6510 m (first ascent in 1954, led by Gvarliani);
• Peak Tajikistan, 6565 m (first ascent in 1962, led by Savvon). Peaks K. Marx and F. Engels were named in 1937 (geologist Klunnikov), and Peak Tajikistan was named only in 1962, the year of its first ascent. The object of the ascent being reported - Peak Babel - is located in the southeastern ridge branching off from the Shakhdarin Ridge at Peak F. Engels, between the Kishty-Jerob and Kasvir glaciers (see diagram). The expedition's base camp was set up under the tongue of the Kishty-Jerob glacier, located between the southern and southeastern ridges branching off from Peak F. Engels, on a large green plateau at an altitude of 4000 m.

For the championship of the central council of the Zenit sports society Class of high-altitude technical ascents p. Babel (6007 m). By the South-Western counterfort 5B cat. diff. (South-Western Pamir). Team of the Moscow Regional Council of the Zenit Sports Society Gorbatov B.N. — team leader (Kalinin) Ivanov V.Ya. (Kaliningrad, my) Korenev E.A. Lunov V.S. Soinov A.I. Zhukovsky, mo

MOS DSO «ZENIT»

Route Description

TO THE SUMMIT «LITVA» (6080 m) VIA THE SOUTHWEST FACE (first ascent) Southwestern Pamir 1972

Group Composition

Chapter II. Ascent Execution

I. Route Description

Day I — August 5, 1972. Departed from the base camp located in the Kishti-Dzherob valley at an altitude of about 4200 m above sea level at 16:00.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent Area: Southwestern Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. Peak, its height: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m. Ascent Route: center — West Wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1460 m, average steepness — 70°, route type — combined, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 525 m, 5th cat. diff. — 400 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, including for standing on (ИТО) rock — 280, ice — 21 (into ice), bolt — 6, chocks — 117 7. Total hours of climbing — 77.5 (including acclimatization day)

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |