SPARTAK SPORTS SOCIETY CENTRAL COUNCIL CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1984 TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 5156 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE EAST FACE BY THE LGS SPARTAK TEAM Team Leader — ISAchenko G.I. Team Coach — ISAchenko G.I. Participants:

• A. Malinovsky
• A. Nardov
• V. Podgursky Contact Information:

Ascent Passport

1. CATEGORY — High-altitude technical
2. REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range
3. PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°.
6. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship

1983

First Ascent Category

Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee

• captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
• coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Area — North Shugnanskiy Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak "5204" via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 5B 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 1750 m, average steepness — 61° Length of sections:

• I — none
• II — 300 m
• III — 710 m

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge.
3. Peak 5204 m, first ascent via the Eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m; average steepness — 58°.
6. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 780 m.
7. Number of pitons driven for belaying: for creating artificial holds:

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical 4.13.8 2. Area — South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range 3. Peak — Gondorak, 5204 m, second ascent via the North Face 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Height difference — 1702 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty category — 700 m, average steepness — 71° (face part) R3–R35 6. Pitons driven | For belay | For creating ITD |

South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge, Peak 5190, ascent via North-Eastern wall. Climbing Report. USSR Climbing Championship. Technical Climbing Class. GENERAL VIEW OF PEAK 5190 /SHUGNAN RIDGE/ UPPER BASTION

Climbing Passport

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Aviator peak, 3333 m, via North-Eastern counterfort.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 220 m, length 380 m, average slope 55°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 28 pcs.
7. Team's travel hours — 6 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Climbing Passport

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov — Munku-Sardyk peak traverse via the Northern ridge.
3. Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
4. The route is of combined nature.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 3130 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 3 pcs.
7. Team's travel hours — 12 h.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Early in the morning, with 250 kg of cargo on the sleds. Having descended along the gentle snowy slope from the pass to the Fedchenko Glacier, we turned south, crossed the glacier, and approached the slopes of Pik Peredovoy. Here, the next intermediate camp was organized. The transition with sleds from the cave to the bivouac under Pik Peredovoy takes 10-12 hours.

3rd day

The group departed from the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy at 17:00 in the direction of the "rusty" counterforce. A long ridge branching off from the summit 6525 m in the western direction divides the cirque of Pik Revolyutsii into two parts: northern and southern. The northern part of the cirque is a series of gradually rising plateaus with sections of relatively steep ascent between them. In the upper part, there is a heavily broken icefall, which can be bypassed under the slopes of the western ridge of the 6300 m summit, and then a passage along huge snowfields is possible to the ridge of the 6525 m summit. The group rejected this path and chose a more logical and shorter route: into the southern part of the cirque, which is located somewhat lower and more gentle. Having bypassed numerous crevices, we approached the foot of the "rusty" counterforce. There is a convenient platform and water (3 hours).

4th day

From the bivouac, the group departed at 8:00 am. The ascent goes along a wide snow-ice couloir, the first from the "rusty" counterforce. The neighboring couloirs are narrow, steep, and covered with flow ice in the upper part. The path through the couloir: