Climbing Passport

East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
Krylya Sovetov — Munku-Sardyk peak traverse via the Northern ridge.
Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
The route is of combined nature.
Height difference 500 m, length 3130 m, average slope 10°.
Pitons hammered: rock and wired 3 pcs.
Team's travel hours — 12 h.
No overnight stays.
Group: Smeyukha S.E. — 1st sports category Bersenyev Yu.V. — 1st sports category Gherus A.O. — 2nd sports category Mikhailov D.N. — 2nd sports category Nabokikh K.S. — 2nd sports category
Coach: Afanasyev A.E. — Master of Sports
Approach to the route and return on May 6, 2003.

Description of the ascent route to Krylya Sovetov — Munku Sardyk peak via the Northern ridge, traverse, cat. complexity.

R0–R1 300 m. 30° 1. Wide couloir. Exit to the ridge to the right of Moguvek pass. R1–R2 200 m. 30° 1. Rocky snowy ridge. R2–R3 80 m. 45° 2. Couloir with a cork. Rocks! R3–R4 80 m. 45° 1. Firn slope. R4–R5 10 m. 60° 2. Destroyed wall. R5–R6 50 m. 45° 2. Summit ridge. Exit to Krylya Sovetov peak. R6–R7 200 m. 20° 1. Descent along the ridge to the west, towards Aviator peak. R7–R8 300 m. 2. 2 gendarmes bypassed to the left along the talus slope. R8–R9 150 m. 1. Flat destroyed ridge. Gendarme bypassed to the right. R9–R10 150 m. 3. Sharp ridge of large boulders. Vertical plate bypassed to the left along the wall. R10–R11 100 m. 60° 3. Steep ascent. Large boulders. Exit to Aviator peak. R11–R12 90 m. 30° 2. Descent along the destroyed narrow ridge. R12–R13 50 m. 1. Wide talus ridge of the saddle. R13–R14 80 m. 40° 1. Snowy ascent. Large rocks. Exit to Leonova peak. R14–R15 500 m. 2. Sharp ridge with short walls. R15–R16 300 m. 30° 2. Rocks, snow. In the upper part — to the left of the ridge. Alternately. Exit to Pasmuraya peak. R16–R17 200 m. 1. Descent along the snowy rocky ridge to the west. Sineglazka gendarme bypassed to the left. R17–R18 300 m. 15° 1. Snowy-talus easy ridge. Exit to Munku-Sardyk peak.

Descent via the 1B category complexity route.