Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley 3. Peak 5200 (Gaumysh) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Elevation gain — 1100 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 580 m of 6 category. Average steepness 75–80°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 55 + XXXI, ice — 88 + XXI, bolt — V, chockstones — 20 + III. 7. Travel time: 46.5 hours 8. Overnights:

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Valery Ryumin Peak, 4630 m, via the northeast wall. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, 600 m, 70°. Length of sections with 5+6 difficulty category, average steepness. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 70 rock + 10 chocks + 5 ice. For artificial points: rock —

Brief explanations for the table

Section R0–R1. In the lower part of the couloir, the main slope is covered with dense snow; in the upper part, it's a snow-covered ice slope. The snow holds well; insurance is provided through an ice axe. Section R1–R2. The first bastion is traversed along an icy, snow-covered ledge; insurance is provided through pitons; climbing is of medium difficulty. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4:

• Upwards to the right, a steep, icy slab with a gap in the middle
• Climbing is very difficult, relying on friction (there are very few holds)
• Insurance is provided through pitons; there are few cracks for piton placement Section R4–R5. A system of main snow-covered and icy ledges and "ram's foreheads." Movement is straight up towards the base of a destroyed counterfort (start of the second bastion). Section R5–R6. Up the right part of the counterfort directly under the yellow wall of the second bastion, along steep, destroyed rocks and a cleft. Climbing is difficult; in the middle part of the counterfort, on a small platform, is the I control point. Section R6–R7. Monolithic sections of the wall are interspersed with "tiled" rock formations. The section is traversed:

Difficult, belay on pitons. Sections IО — II, II — I2. Along the left part of the ruined wall straight up under the iced crack with a plug, on the right remains a rocky cornice. The crack is passed using ladders, climbing is very difficult due to non-solid ice. Sections I2 — I3, I3 — I4. Further to the right along the shelf under the wide crack and left-upwards along the crack to the base of a small grey wall. Climbing is difficult, "live rocks!", belay is only on pitons. Sections R4–R5, R5–R6. The grey wall is climbed straight up, further to the right upwards

Ascent Passport № 20

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Alay ridge, northern spur
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 5100 m via the counterfort of the North face
4. Proposed category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1200 m
   • height difference of the wall section — 1100 m
   • length of sections: IV difficulty category — 855 m, V difficulty category — 805 m, VI difficulty category — 90 m
   • average steepness of the wall section — 64°

ASCENT PASS.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area: Alay mountain range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Gaumysh peak, 5367 m via the spur on the north face p. 5100.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference — 1300 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 850 m; average steepness of the wall — 60°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 52, ice — 80, chocks — 4.
7. Total hours of climbing — 52.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 — lying on a snow-ice slope;

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, Pamir range, Kichik-Alay
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pik Bratyev Kadomtsyevyx, 4670 m, via the right part of the northwest face
4. Expected difficulty category 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section 540 m, total 770 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 603 m. Average steepness 71°
6. Pitons used: for belaying on rock — 166 ice — 6 bolted —

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kisik-Alay ridge.
3. Brothers Kadomtsev peak via the central buttress of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category, combined.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m sections of 5–6 category difficulty: 420 m, average steepness: 68°
6. Number of pitons hammered, protection placed:
   • for belaying:

I. Class — technical 2. Region — Kichik-Alay ridge 3. Peak — №4280 m. First ascent via N concrete and 3 mixed terrain 4. Proposed difficulty category — A 5. Height difference — 780 m. Length of sections with III–IV natural difficulty — m. Average steepness of technically difficult sections — 58° 6. Ryuchev Curl:

Approach. The approach to the slopes of p. Chaka from the overnight stay located near the large lake (the site of the base camp under the peak Bratyev Kolomtsevyh) takes 2 hours. When approaching, it is advisable to stick to the left side of the glacier descending from the peak Kirgiz-Ata. This path has:

• a more even ascent without sharp drops;
• fewer rock boulders along the way. Ascent. From the glacier, the ascent to the saddle between p. Chaka and v. Tsaritsyna occurs along a wide scree couloir, in the lower part of which there is a jumble of huge boulders. The steepness of the couloir increases with altitude gain. The upper part has fine scree, alternating with rocky outcrops. The average steepness is from 30° to 50° (in the upper part). The length of the couloir is about 300 m. At the beginning of summer, ascent on snow is possible. The ridge of the saddle has 3 gendarmes, which are bypassed on the western side or when ascending directly under the wall with an exit to the saddle (dangerous, rockfall possible). The ascent, depending on the condition of the couloir, takes about 1 hour. The ascent along the northern ridge occurs mainly along the left part. First, about 20 m along a destroyed wall to the base of two parallel chimneys. Ascent of 20 m (10 of them along the chimney) up the right chimney, protection only on inserted elements (rocks crumble). Above the chimney, using a system of figure-eight ledges, we approach the only logical ascent point - a steep inner corner (about 20 m). The ascent is of moderate difficulty, the walls of the corner are unreliable (collapse of slab-like blocks is possible). Passage is very smooth movements and loaded grip. Only inserts are used, which need to be "seated" deeply. After the inner corner, there is an exit to the ridge. Further:
• along the ledges,