1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Pamir, Vanch Range.
3. Peak, its height, and climbing route: 1st North peak of Arda-bag (4920 m) via the West face.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 920 m; average steepness — 68°; total length of sections — 1160 m, including R1 — none, R2 — none, R3 — 285, R4 — 510, R5 — 270, R6 — 95.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock 67, ice 4; for aid climbing — 3; expansion bolts — none.
7. Number of climbing hours: 20 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 bivouac, sitting.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader and participants, and their sports qualification: Nikolaichuk Oleg Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports, team leader; Onysko Orest Stepanovich, Candidate Master of Sports; Viter Igor Sergeevich, 1st sports category; Gusakovsky Viktor Vasilyevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach: Bolizhevsky Valery Konstantinovich, Master of Sports of the USSR.

1. Category of ascent
2. Area of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference, average steepness, length
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock ice
7. Number of walking hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics

4.2.5 Moscow City Ministry — 1975.

Traverse of Peaks 4773 m and 5025 m with ascent to Peak 4773 m via the North Ridge — Cat. 5B (First Ascent)

Central Pamir

Spartak MGS Team. Bashkirov V. L. — team leader, 1st sports category Ginzburg V. I. — CMS Novikov L. I. — 1st sports category Stepanov V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Honored Master of Sports Kavunenko V. D.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — № 4.3.
3. Summit — Komurzang Peak, height 4649 m, route via the Northwest Ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, average slope 50°, length of sections of II difficulty category — 700 m, III difficulty category — 1000 m.
6. 5 rock anchors installed for belaying.
7. Total moving time — 6 hours 30 minutes.
8. No overnight stops on the route.
9. Climbers: Leader — Valery Alexandrovich Ovsyannikov (1st sports category), participants:

270530

Report

8

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: Training.
2. Ascent area: NW Pamir, spurs of the Darvaz Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5400 (p. Ledovyy, name is conditional) via the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference 600 m.
   • average slope 40°
   • length of sections with 5 cat. diff. – 20 m.
6. Number of pitons driven for belaying, for creating artificial holds:

I. Climbing class — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanch ridge, upper reaches of the Dustiroz river gorge. 3. Climbing route — peak "5307" via the Northern counterfort from the moraine of the Pravy Dustagor glacier. 4. Climbing characteristics: elevation gain — about 1600 m, average steepness — 45–50°, length of the challenging section — about 1100 m in height, starting from approximately 4000 m above sea level and up to the pre-summit ridge; total length of key sections — about 200 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, ice — 20, bolted pitons — not used. 6. Total climbing hours — 36 (ascent — 27, descent — 9). 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: total — 3 (two during ascent, one during descent). First bivouac at an altitude of about 4200 m. Can lay out a site for one tent. No water. Snow. Second bivouac on a shelf at an altitude of about 4750 m. Sitting bivouac. Safe. No water. Snow. Third bivouac on the Western ridge, 150–200 m beyond the summit. Can lay out a site for one or two tents. No water. Ice, snow. 8. Team name — sports group of the "Vysochnik" alpine camp, combined team from Gorky (SDSO "Burevestnik", DSO "Trud"). 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Rodionov Sergey Nikolaevich (leader) — 1st sports category, Vyshinsky Nikolay Nikolaevich — 1st sports category, instructor, Borisov Gennady Konstantinovich — 2nd sports category, instructor, Vavilov Alexander Ivanovich — 2nd sports category, instructor.

4.2.16

Report

Ravok East. Group of climbers SK A-18 SibVO on the first ascent to the peak 5223 m via the eastern ridge, route approximately category 3B.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route.

Map of the ascent area.

Ascent and descent route.

Route description.

I. Ascent Passport

1. Category: technically challenging ascents.
2. Area: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5232 m (Ravak) via the center of the north face.
4. Characteristics of the ascent:
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 60°;
   • length of complex sections (5 and 6 cat. diff.) — 875 m;
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 126;

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: