Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Northwest Pamir, Walter Glacier
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: West wall of Peak Klara Zetkin, 6680 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2280 m, average steepness 73°, length of complex section 834 m
5. Number of pitons: rock 253 ice 13, expansion bolts 2
6. Number of travel hours: 83 h
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: seven (five semi-reclining, two reclining).

Route Description

to the summit of Peak named after the newspaper "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy" (6042 m) via the western counterfort. The group consisted of 8 people:

1. Kokorev V.I. — leader
2. Milko V.B. — participant
3. Rozhalskaya G.K. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
4. Tumovich S.D. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
5. Shturma G.V. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
6. Shalygin A.A. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
7. Braverman V.L. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"

of tires and giant snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices on the NE side.

• Two rocky jandarmas are passed with piton belay.
• The last three ropes of ascent to the 5280 m summit are very steep.
• The exit to the 5280 m summit is through a 1–1.5 m snow cornice. The route from the 5280 m summit goes northeast along the ridge. The first section of the path (250 m) is along the ridge with several cornices hanging to the southeast, and the northwest side of the ridge is a sheer ice drop. Further, the ridge abruptly breaks off with a 30–40 meter wall 5–7 meters wide. At this section, it is advisable to use a handrail. Further, several cornices are passed, behind which is a fairly large mulda where a bivouac can be organized (our group dug a cave here). After the mulda, the ridge narrows again. Having passed several steep ascents and sharp descents with large cornices, a jandarma is encountered (a very narrow, jagged ridge, 100–120 m long), its left side (along the route) breaks off with rocky walls, and the right side is ice drops with cornices. The passage of this section must be with thorough belay. Beyond the jandarma is a sheer ice descent for two ropes. The further path goes along the ridge with steep ascents and descents up to 60–70°. Cornices are located on the right side, all the way to the summit. The entire route (ridge) must be traversed, staying on the left side along the route, except for the jandarma. Before the pre-summit ascent, there is a fairly large mulda (platform) where a bivouac can be organized (by digging a cave). The ascent to the summit along the pre-summit slope is steep (55–60°) to the right of the mulda and to the right of the jandarma, resembling Ushba in its outline. The first 40–50 m are very deep snow, then you need to go left along the firm firn, after 1.5–2 hours.

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

Passport

I. High-altitude technical category 2. South-Western Pamir 3. Peak “Tajik State University” via the central route on the right part of the E. wall (V.Smirnov's route) 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference: 1250 m, length — 1340 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1020 m. Average steepness — 73°. 6B category of difficulty — 380 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak Tajikistan GU, center of the eastern wall of the main summit 6183 m
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1210 m, length — 1300 m
6. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1020 m including 6B category of difficulty — 440 m. Average steepness of the route — 72–73°
7. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
2. Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
3. Peak: Peak ENGELS (6510) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
6. Sections of V difficulty category – 340 m
7. Sections of VI difficulty category – 360 m
8. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Passport

I. Altitude class 2. South-Western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzhërob gorge 3. Peak Engels 6510 via the "well" on the South face. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1160 m, length - 2382 m. 6. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 732 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75°, including 6B category of difficulty - 84°. 7. Pitons driven: Rock: 176, bolt: 59, chocks: 216, ice: 12.