Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Summit — Slonënok peak, height — 4726 m, ascent route — Northwest counterfort.
4. Proposed complexity category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1160 m, average steepness — 72°, section lengths:
   • 2nd difficulty category — 260 m.
   • 3rd difficulty category — 17 m.
   • 4th difficulty category — 111 m.

Passport

Ascent to Peak 4337 via the Eastern Counterfort of the North Face, completed on August 9-10, 1980.

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Eastern Tian-Shan, Karakol valley.
3. Ascent route — Peak 4337 via the Eastern Counterfort of the North Face, approximately category 3B difficulty. First ascent.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: — route length — 800 m. — elevation gain — 500 m. — average slope of the route — 50°, wall sections — 60°.
5. Pitons used:

№ 558.7.7 dated 14.01.1986

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: 2nd NE peak Druzhba, 4030 m. Via NW edge of NE ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 5. Route characteristics: * elevation gain: 600 m * average slope: 43° * length of sections: I – 550 m, II – 290 m, III – 30 m

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — "Sofia" 3100 m NW side right part
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 360 m Average steepness — 80° Length of sections with 5B category difficulty — 200 m
6. Number of pitons driven: Rock pitons — 18 pcs

2. Frame of ascent, ridge — 0–3 Tien Shan — Pamir Talassky Ridge
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — Piramida (Terek) 3910, eastern edge
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B
5. Characteristic of the route: height difference, length of section 1–5 category of difficulty, average steepness in degrees — height difference 800 m, average steepness — 40°
6. Driven pitons for insurance to create intermediate support points: rock — ice — bolt —
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays, and their characteristics — none

4.14.18 24

Ascent description to Peak 4011 m (35 let Pobedy) via the northern ridge, cat. 1B (first ascent)

Peak 4011 m is situated south of the Teke ridge (3370 m) in the same mountain range. From the “Nefertiti” bivouac, go up the gorge towards the visible Alpish-at peak (40 horses) — 40 min. A wide stony couloir with snow patches descends to this point of the gorge from the right (sey) from the cirque of the eastern slopes of Peak 4011 and the southern ridge of Teke. Climb up, better to stick to the right side — 1 h. Exit to the cirque, to its right part. Altitude 3300 m. From here, a steep snowy couloir (up to 30°) is clearly visible, leading to the southern ridge of Teke. The ascent up to the ridge (altitude 3730 m) takes 1–1.5 h. Here it is necessary to:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai: Kara-Kazyk gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route character: peak Gadjir, 5050 m, SW ridge, combined 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: * elevation gain 1700 m * length of sections 5–6 km/tr. 550 m * average steepness up to R13: 75°–80° * after R13: 30°–35°

Dugoba. Maly Zamok. Aleksey Tyulyupo

Lyosha Tyulyupo is currently in Dugoba, climbing in the mountains. He would have written this himself, but the internet there is, let's say, unstable. So, he asked me to post a couple of updates, sending the materials through an opportunity. And that's what I'm doing :0)) The first post is about a new route on Maly Zamok (4A) - a description and some thoughts on the topic.... This spring, an article about a new 3B route on Maly Zamok - the mountain closest to the Dugoba alp camp - appeared on "Risk". The experience of the summer gatherings showed that the route turned out to be very much in demand. However, few people know that a 4A route was laid out on the same wall. There were no enthusiasts to climb it during the May gatherings, so I didn't hurry with the report. A few days ago, we made a second ascent and:

• equipped the stations with bolts. Now, we can safely recommend this route to gathering participants with good rock climbing training.

Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Alayskiy ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge. 3. Peak Leningradets via the center of the left part of the NE wall, 4980 m, rock. 4. 5B, second ascent. 5. the entire route wall is the most technically challenging part

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