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Ascent description to Peak 4011 m (35 let Pobedy) via the northern ridge, cat. 1B (first ascent)

Peak 4011 m is situated south of the Teke ridge (3370 m) in the same mountain range.

From the “Nefertiti” bivouac, go up the gorge towards the visible Alpish-at peak (40 horses) — 40 min.

A wide stony couloir with snow patches descends to this point of the gorge from the right (sey) from the cirque of the eastern slopes of Peak 4011 and the southern ridge of Teke.

Climb up, better to stick to the right side — 1 h.

Exit to the cirque, to its right part. Altitude 3300 m.

From here, a steep snowy couloir (up to 30°) is clearly visible, leading to the southern ridge of Teke.

The ascent up to the ridge (altitude 3730 m) takes 1–1.5 h. Here it is necessary to:

• form rope teams.

Along the snowy slope, approach the rock outcrops, which are initially climbed directly, then bypassed on the right side of the ridge with alternating belay. Further along the ridge — descent to the pass. Then the ascent continues on the right side of the wide snowy ridge (be careful, overhanging cornices on the left!) towards the pre-summit slope. Altitude 3800 m, 1 h of movement.

Along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 25°, ascend to the saddle between the two clearly visible rock outcrops of Peak 4011 and then to the left peak — another 1 h of ascent.

The entire route is logical and beautiful. Recommended as a valid cat. 1B route.

Descent follows the ascent path down to the pass, then down the steep slope to the right into the cirque. Further down to the left to the start of the route (3300 m).

• From the summit — 0.5+1 h.
• Descent to the “Nefertiti” bivouac takes another 1.5 h.

Recommendations: start the ascent no later than 5:00.

May 5, 1980. V. Tataev, Master of Sports — team leader; K. Makunin, journalist A. Pak, Pr. G. Starikov, Candidate for Master of Sports.