II. Kapandor. From the West

Description of the ascent via route category 2A.

I. Approaches

From the Ziddy settlement, it takes 1.5 hours to reach the beginning of the Kapandor gorge. A summer hydrometeorological post is located here. The trail goes uphill along the Ziddinka River. From the overnight stay, follow the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream flowing from the east, then move to the next parallel gorge (1.5 hours) and up to the Kolandor pass (1.5 hours).

II. Ascent

The route goes from the Kolandor pass along easy rocks, bypassing a short ridge coming from the summit on the right (left). The movement is simultaneous. The ascent leads to this ridge. Further, a rocky chute (1x50 m) and two walls (2x30 m) lead to the pre-summit ridge. On these sections, the movement is alternating, the rocks are easy and moderately difficult, with protection provided by rock outcrops. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent from the pass takes 4 hours, and the descent takes 1.5 hours. The first ascent was made in June 1970 by a group consisting of: Tkachov V.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports Lavruhin V.I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Yarashev N.M. — 2nd category

Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11. In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges. Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam. The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours. The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible. After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch. Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.

32. Kulai Jawonon from the Bolshoi Igizak Pass, category 16, fig. 16.

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, follow the Igizak River along grassy slopes and scree, and higher up, snow, to ascend to the Bolshoi Igizak Pass. From the pass, head left towards the summit along the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, and the movement is simultaneous. After 200 m:

• Bypass a minor summit on the right, from which the ridge turns southeast.
• Follow the snowy ridge to the first summit.
• The steep ascent up the snowfield is done with alternating belays. On the way to the Main summit from the first, two gaps in the ridge are encountered. It's better to ascend via the snow to the left of the ridge. The exit to the summit is on snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge to a gap, and then onto the Kulai Jawonon glacier plateau and down the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. Fig. 16.

Peak October from SE

2A — difficulty cat. Peak October is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit is 4100 m. It is the most beautiful summit in the area, having a pyramid shape and dropping off with sheer walls towards the Maihura River. Approaches and overnight stops are similar to those for the Shirokaya and Nevezuchaya peaks. The ascent to the summit begins from a col on its SE ridge at a height of 3500 m. The ascent to the col, clearly visible from below, goes along a steep scree, местами cemented, and grassy slopes. From the col, we approach the rocks and, bypassing them on the right along a ledge (about 30 m) above the sheer walls towards Maihura, we come to the beginning of a small couloir dropping off with walls. Crossing the couloir from left to right upwards, we come to its upper part, representing a chimney with a plug at the top. Having ascended the chimney to the plug (3–4 m), we go to the right onto the ridge and along it — to the summit. The rocks are easy, passed partly simultaneously, partly with occasional belays on выступы, friable. Descent from the summit: continuing the traverse along the western ridge (about 10–15 m), we descend to a narrow friable ledge and along it about 30–40 m to the beginning of a cleft turning into a couloir, along which we descend to the start of the ascent. Further — descent to the valley along any couloir. The first ascent was made on November 7, 1962. Time taken from overnight stop to overnight stop at the mouth of r. T. Igizak is 12 hours.

44. Peak Panoramnyi from the south, route 2A cat. difficulty, fig. 23 (Romashevsky I. with a group - 1955) From the "Tajikskie Igizaki" bivouac, head up the gorge along the trail for about an hour. Then turn right into a side gorge with a canyon, and go up (possible snow) for 3 hours to a saddle on the southern ridge of the summit. From the saddle, follow a grassy slope with small scree to the left, heading towards the rock gate in the black rocks. Then enter the gate, and bypassing the rocks on the left, follow a couloir with small scree and rocks to reach a sharp ridge. Continue along the ridge to the saddle. Belay. From the saddle, follow the summit ridge, which is heavily broken and consists of jagged rocks and needles, to the summit. Traveling along the ridge takes 2 hours. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

95. Ascent Report

I. Ascent Class — Rock 2. Ascent Area — Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky Ridge, Tajik Igizakov area 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route, route characteristics — Sioykh, 4100 m, via the western ridge, rock. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 1B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness — 42° section lengths: R1 — 550 m, R2 — 150 m, R3 — m, R4 — m, R5 — m, R6 — m. 6. Pitons driven: rock 3/0

p. Sogdiana (Peak I). From the West. Description of the ascent via route 2B cat. diff.

I. Approaches.

Sogdiana is located at the junction of the Takob and Sangaltak areas. The approaches start at the 45th km of the Varzob highway. Straight from the road:

• The path leads up to the Tikhoi Radosti pass (trail) and descends into the Guscharinka river valley.
• The camp is located right where you descend.
• The approach from the road takes 2 hours. Further approaches follow the trail upstream along the stream, exiting below the fork of the gorges:
• Move to the right, bypassing the walls of Sogdiana on the left, and exit onto the pass.
• The approach from the camp takes 2 hours.

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — Winter ascents.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuz spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Surkh-Nu (2980 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1380 m, average slope 30°–35°, length of sections: R1 — ... m, R2 — 2500 m, R3 — ... m, R4 — ... m, R5 — ... m, R6 — ... m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS — rock climbing
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay, Igizak area
3. PEAK, ASCENT ROUTE — Hyrс, via the cleft in the western wall buttress
4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B–4B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: 1000 m elevation gain, ice and rock, main section is rock with an average steepness of 75° and a length of 200 m, 4th difficulty category.
6. 15 rock pitons hammered in for belaying
7. MOVING TIME — 8 hours for a team of two
8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS —
9. PARTICIPANTS' FULL NAMES — Kadmensky A.G. (1st sports category), Furman V.I. (Candidate for Master of Sports)