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Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateAscent description of an alpinist team to the summit Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) via the center of the North face in the Pamir mountains, 6B difficulty category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, eastern spurs of the Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, route: Kholodnaya стена, 5979 m, via the center of the North face 4. Difficulty category: 6B 5. Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 1500 m
- Length of sections:
- 6th category difficulty: 760 m
- 5th category difficulty: 860 m
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateCaptain Valery Boyko's team making the first ascent of a new route, category 6 difficulty, up the north face of Pik Kholodnaya Stena in the Pamir Mountains in 1985.
- Class: high-altitude technical.
- Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley.
- Peak Kholodnaya стена (Cold Wall) via the center of the N wall.
- Verba's Route, 6B category of difficulty, 1983.
- Height difference: 1500 m. Distance: 1830 m. Distance of sections:
- 1st category of difficulty — 1175 m
- 6th category of difficulty — 395 m
- Pitons hammered in:
Route Description: левой части В стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route through the center of the eastern wall of "Kholodnaya стена" peak (5959 m) in the Pamir mountains, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical features.
Passport
I. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category
- Eastern Pamir. Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavrez-dara gorge.
- Kholodnaya Stena peak, via the center of the East wall.
- 6th category of difficulty, third ascent of the route, which took 1st place at the 1980 USSR Climbing Championship.
- Elevation gain: 1660 m, route length — 2150 m (including 70 m of descent).
- Section lengths: 6th category — 447 m, 5th category — 904 m. Average steepness of the route: 1st bastion — 70° 2nd bastion — 75°
Description of the ascent route with a detailed diagram and technical details on a scale of 1:2000.
ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SYMBOLS. SCALE 1:2000
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent by the LGSDSO "Spartak" team to the 5156 m peak via the center of the eastern wall in the Yazgulem Range in 1984.
SPARTAK SPORTS SOCIETY CENTRAL COUNCIL CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1984 TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 5156 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE EAST FACE BY THE LGS SPARTAK TEAM Team Leader — ISAchenko G.I. Team Coach — ISAchenko G.I. Participants:
- A. Malinovsky
- A. Nardov
- V. Podgursky Contact Information:
Route Description: кф. СВ стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the spur of the northeast face, 5B difficulty category, Pamir, Shugnanskiy Range.
Ascent Passport
- CATEGORY — High-altitude technical
- REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range
- PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall
- PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°.
- PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO
Route Description: кф. СВ стены
SSummitMateThe Chelyabinsk team made the first ascent of Vozh Peak via the spur of the northeast wall during the I RSFSR Alpine Climbing Championship in 1983, with the route rated as Category 5B.
The First RSFSR Climbing Championship
1983
First Ascent Category
Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee
- captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
- coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent of Peak "5204" via the center of the eastern wall in the North Shudnan Range, difficulty category 5B, elevation gain 1750 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Area — North Shugnanskiy Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak "5204" via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 5B 5. Route Characteristics: height difference — 1750 m, average steepness — 61° Length of sections:
- I — none
- II — 300 m
- III — 710 m
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the 5204 m peak in the Pamir Mountains via the East Face, category 5B difficulty, a technically challenging combined ascent with a height difference of 1500 m.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical.
- South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge.
- Peak 5204 m, first ascent via the Eastern wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m; average steepness — 58°.
- Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 780 m.
- Number of pitons driven for belaying: for creating artificial holds:
Route Description: ЮЗ склону и ЮЗ гребню
SSummitMateClimbing passport for Peak 6047 m in the Yazgulyam Range, Pamir Mountains, via the southern glacier-firn slope with exit to the southern ridge, category of difficulty 4B.
Climbing Passport
I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m