Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Zekara (3828 m) — via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B-2A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — about 600 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 2 km. Length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — 80°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — none. Chocks used on the route — 5.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north:

• Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m)
• Peak Iriston (4000 m)
• Chach-khokh (4100 m)
• Peak "3850"
• South Kaidzhani (3916 m)
• North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.

The summit is located in the Tepli group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, in the northern "Saw" of Kolota (4168 m), being the northernmost peak of the spur. The first ascent to Pik Severny was made from the Tsaziu-kom gorge, with an exit to the eastern ridge of the Peak, on June 12, 1966, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, consisting of 7 people (1st category, the rest - higher category) led by V. Meshcheryakov, with R. Proskuryakov as the instructor-observer.

Day 1

From Ordzhonikidze, they drive by car along the Gizel highway to the village of Dzuarikau, after which they turn into the Kurtatinsky gorge. They pass through the villages:

• Lash,
• Khidikus,
• Khariskin and reach the bridge over the Tsaziu-don river, at the confluence of the latter with the Fiagdon river. They ascend along the left bank of the Tsaziu-don river, following the trail, which after about twenty minutes of walking leads to a small bridge over Tsaziu-don. They cross the bridge and follow the trail along a fairly wide terrace of the gorge, overgrown with bushes and dwarf birches. After 2 hours and 30 minutes of walking along the trail along the river, they exit the bush zone and move along an alpine meadow. Near a small mountain lake, a bivouac can be conveniently set up.

Day 2

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tbau Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from Kakadursky Pass, category 1B, by the GSK "Krokus" team, May 12, 2019 2019

1. Ascent Passport

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Alania via the North-Eastern ridge, category 1B, by the Alpinism Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia — Alania team, July 23, 2021.

1. Ascent Passport

REPORT

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024

I. Climbing Report

Report

ON ASCENDING JARLAM CENTRAL PEAK VIA THE WESTERN ROUTE, CATEGORY 1B DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM DECEMBER 29, 2021 TO DECEMBER 29, 2021

I. Ascent Passport

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT CEЙ–ЛОАМ (КЯЗИ) VIA THE RIGHT COULOIR OF THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022 TO 18:00 ON JANUARY 18, 2022

I. Climbing Report

186. Sullukol via the left counterfort of the North face (D. Sukhodolsky's route, cat.4B)

II ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technically challenging
2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Caucasus. From Chiperezau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Treugolnik 3928 m, left buttress of the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m; average steepness — 40°; section lengths: