200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

Fig. 17

MOUNTAINEERING

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Main Shkhara, center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1145 m, length: 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl.: 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 57°, including 6 cat. sl.: 62° (4360 m–4550 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 36/2, chocks 49/3, ice screws: 60/6
7. Team's travel hours - 26 and days - 3.

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.

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¹

Fig. 41

2. Ascent to the summit of Yuzhny Dombay-Ulgen via the southern ridge with crossing Dombay and Ptysh passes — cat. 2B (see Fig. 40–42)

From Ptysh bivouac, up the moraine of Ptysh glacier (15–20 minutes) and left — towards Dombay pass. Ascend via the couloir (or its right side) and reach the eastern edge of Kruzhevoy glacier. Then:

• Ascend the snowy slope
• Ascend the wide couloir
• Traverse on the right side of the rocky ridge
• Reach Dombay pass — bivouac

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16)

From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option:

• To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge.
• Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!).
• The upper part of the ridge is scree.
• The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit.
• The summit dome is snow-covered.
• The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours.
• Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier

D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.