![img-0.jpeg]({"0": "width": 753, "height": 621, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/XjFEEecR0szAcq3IJwcyHTu7LfdyF9j7/img-0.jpeg", "id": 64745172}) REPORT ![img-1.jpeg]({"0": "width": 1376, "height": 131, "format": "Jpeg", "uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/0CM2EsSyu3RvBTLu8U5afLDlPPVJ90Dm/img-1.jpeg", "id": 64745173}) ON TRAVERSE OF PEAKS DALAR — DVOINYASHKA — ZAMOK

• ascent to Dalar via western wall
• to Dvoinyashka along the "edge"
• first ascent July — August 1968

Table of Contents

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class — Technical
2. Ascent Region — Central Caucasus
3. Summit — Pik Shestirekh via the South Face
4. Estimated Difficulty Category — 5B
5. Route Characteristics:
   • Elevation Gain — 1100 m
   • Average Steepness — 65°
6. Pitons Driven:
   • Rock Pitons — 95

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m)

Via the Southeastern Ridge, Category III-B–IV-A

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m above sea level) is located in the high-mountainous Tepli group of the Lateral Ridge of the Central Caucasus. The peak is situated in the northern spur of Kolota (4168 m) between the "4010 m" peak to the south and the "4036 m" peak to the north, on the watershed of the Arkhon-Don and Tsazi-Don rivers. There is no information about ascents to the peak. A steep rocky ridge descends from the peak to the southeast, which was traversed during the first ascent by R.P. Proskuryakov's group in September 1971, made in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet Guards. The path from Ordzhonikidze passes along the highway through the village of Dzuarikau and further along the Fiagdon River (Kurtatinskoye gorge) to the mouth of the Tsazi-Don River, a kilometer south of the highest village in the gorge, Kharischan. A high-clearance vehicle can drive through the village of Kharischan along the road to Arkhon Pass (Dzhimi North Pass), before which a dirt road, built by geologists, turns left into the Tsazi-Don gorge, which can save 1.5-2 hours of walking. For a kilometer, the trail winds along the right bank of the Tsazi-Don River, then crosses a bridge and continues along the left bank of the river to a dead end, past a small lake, through moraine rises - a total of 4-5 hours of walking to a convenient bivouac site in a wide hollow among the left-bank moraines near the Tsazi Glacier plateau (2900 m above sea level). Two campsites are laid out here, and a small lake is located nearby in a deep pocket between the moraines. To return to the bivouac on time, it's necessary to start the ascent no later than 4:00 AM.

Rock climbing Classification Commission Alpinism Federation of Russia

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (proposed 6A category), made by the team of Poltava Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist category II Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
2. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
3. Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length:
   • 5 category – 52 m.
   • 6 category – 27 m.

1. Climbing category	— rock climbing
2. Climbing area	— East Caucasus, Scaly Ridge, watershed of Armhi and Assa rivers, Chechen-Ingush ASSR.
3. Summit, its height, climbing route	— Girech Zapadnaya (2971 m) via the left couloir of the S wall and the SE ridge.
4. Route characteristics
a/ height difference on the route	— 720 m.
b/ route length	— 2865 m.
c/ average steepness of the route	— 42°
5. Pitons used for belaying (for creating ITO):
rock pitons	— 7 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: 2.9, from Kreстовый Pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Peak, route: Jarlam South-East via Western ridge, 3155 m (first ascent)
3. Complexity category: 2B cat. sl.
4. Route characteristics: rock Height difference of the route: 240 m Route length: 810 m Section lengths:

• 2 — 530 m
• 3 — 80 m

Ascent Record

1. Region: CAUCASUS
2. Area: 2.5.1. From Kitlod Pass to Gezivtsvek Pass (south of the Main Caucasian Range)
3. Peak: Dzharlam, Southeast
4. Height: 3155 (3180 according to GPS)
5. Route: via the Western Ridge
6. Category of difficulty: 2B
7. Route characteristics: rock climbing Elevation gain of the route: 530 m. Route length: 980 m
8. Equipment used on the route:

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — North-Eastern Caucasus, Girech Jarlam 3. Summit Girech West via South-West edge, rock climbing, height 3171 m. 4. Proposed category complexity — 3B 5. Height difference — 670 m. Distance — 980 m. Average steepness — 45° 6. Rock pitons hammered — 27/17, chocks — 34/9 7. Climbing hours — 12 8. Leader — Tikhonov Anatoliy Nikolaevich — 1st sports category Team members:

Ascent log.

1. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1
2. Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge.
3. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none.
7. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2)
8. Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent.
9. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports