Fig. 26 110. Uilpata (4668 m) via the North ridge-slope (route is ice-snow, V. Naumenko, category 4A, Fig. 26). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at Vorobyovskie nochevki:

• via Uilpatinsky glacier — described in route 99;
• via South and North branches of the Tsey glacier — described in routes 83 and 108. From Vorobyovskie nochevki, turn right (when ascending from the Uilpatinsky glacier) and along Vorobyev glacier, left of the ice falls descending to the Uilpatinsky glacier, approach a steep snow slope with several rocky buttresses. The slope descends from the Songuti pass, connecting the peaks of Songuti on the right and Uilpata on the left. From the glacier, pass through the snow bridge of the bergschrund. Further:
• pass on the left side of the steep, third couloir from Uilpata (possible rockfall);
• ascend simple and moderately difficult, heavily damaged rocks of the steep counterfort (pitched rope);

128. Uipata-Hoh via East Face

(Mixed route: category III) From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

141. Peak TsDSA via the Southeast Ridge South Face

(combined route, cat. 4B difficulty) From the Uilpatinsky overnight camps, ascend the glacier, bypassing the Southeast face of Peak TsDSA, to reach the start of the route. Climb a 150–200 m snowy slope to reach the rocks of the southern buttress. The ascent is via moderately difficult rocks, leaving the "Suchi" to the right. After 120–150 m, enter a snow-ice couloir that leads to a 20-meter wall (the first critical section), which is climbed without a backpack. Two pitons are hammered into this wall. After the wall, move 30–50 m left and up across scree slopes under the "Bastion" to find a platform with a cairn, where a note from the first group to take this route in 1963 was found. From the cairn, move right across easy rocks to reach a broad snow-ice couloir. Cross it and exit onto the ridge on the right side. Follow the ridge for 30 m across easy rocks to reach a snow-ice saddle (with a cornices on the saddle). After crossing the saddle, bypass the "Bastion" on the right across heavily broken rocks. Then ascend 100–120 m up snow-covered rocks to reach a saddle between the "Bastion" and the First sentinel. Bypass the sentinel on the left and follow the ridge to the second sentinel (the second critical section). The 50-meter sentinel wall has a steepness of 80–90° with few holds. There is a small platform at the top for belaying (five pitons are hammered in at this section). Continue up the heavily broken ridge with numerous sentinels, which are climbed head-on:

• On the ridge, there is a second control cairn with a note from a 1952 group led by Master of Sports Kolomensky V.
• The "Zub" sentinel is climbed head-on via a crack with a plug - a [moderately difficult] section. Five pitons were hammered in during the ascent and descent of the "Zub" sentinel (descent on a rope while seated).

Report

On the Ascent

FOR THE 1970 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP BY THE TEAM FROM THE "TSEI" ALPINE CAMP UNDER THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "TRUD" SPORTS SOCIETY TO THE SUMMIT OF CHANCHAKHI-KHOKH (4420 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (NORTHEAST FACE OF THE CENTRAL BASTION) (FIRST ASCENT) Team Captain: GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I.

Team List

| № | Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Year of Birth | Rank | Place of Work and Position | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a/Best Ascent and Year; b/Best Ascent in the Last 2 Years |

Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan

Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya" Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A. Minsk 1965 Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk. Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections. "It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray" Ossetian proverb

General Description of the Peak and its Location

The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as:

• Jimarai-khokh
• Shau-khokh
• Suatisi-khokh
• Zeigalan-khokh
• Tsiti-khokh
• Khirkhaten

Fig. 6.

Fig. 4.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour. The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging. From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours. Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1. Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility. Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants