128. Uipata-Hoh via East Face

(Mixed route: category III)

From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

A bivouac is organized on one of the ledges. Above the bivouac, steep rocks of significant difficulty begin, extending 6 ropes to the overhanging rock. Protection is mostly piton. The steepness of the rocks is 70–80° with few holds; the rocks are smooth. The overhanging rock is passed on the left side via a crack, a 15-meter section. Protection is via a series of pitons. Beyond the rock, the crack widens, and it is possible to organize protection from the lead climber. Further ascent proceeds up rocks of medium difficulty directly upwards with piton protection or protection via rock features. The path along the rocky ridge traverses broken rocks interspersed with ice. Higher up, the rocks become more monolithic with an overall steepness of 45°; sometimes it is necessary to drive pitons. Above the rocks, an icy (in summer) ridge extends upwards for 2.5 ropes. Ice screws are used for protection. The slope's steepness gradually eases from 45° and below, and beneath the summit, traversing rocky outcrops (5 ropes), the route reaches the summit cairn. The descent from the summit into the northern cirque is via a snowy, icy ridge, category II.