PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak Kholodnaya стена via the center of the North wall 5970 m (Verba route)
4. 6th category of difficulty, second ascent, 4th overall
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length — 1800 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (4470 – 5850), including 6th category difficulty — 580 m
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 169+5x | — | 86 | 65 |

Ascent Passport

1. Area — from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak, p. 2.9
2. Peak — Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via South-West edge
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

Height difference of the route: 700 m. Route length: 850 m. Length of sections:

• III category of difficulty — 180 m.
• IV category of difficulty — 100 m.
• V category of difficulty — 160 m.

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Shugnan Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — northwest spur of GondoRак West (5100) via counterfort of the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B (2nd ascent)
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1100 m
   • average slope — 55°
   • length of sections:
     • III — 780 m

Ascent Passport

Class of ascent — technical. Rank of ascent — D-3. Pamir, Shugnan Range. Crystal Peak, ascent route — Peak 5190 via South Ridge. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m, length of sections of 2nd category — 360 m; 3rd–4th category — 585 m; 5th category — 415 m; 6th category — 245 m. Average steepness of the route: from the start of the route (sections R0–R19) — 58°; from the saddle (sect. R3–R19) — 70°; steepness of the South Ridge (sections R3–R18, defining part of the route) — 79°. Pitons hammered in: for rock insurance — 63, ice — 18, bolt — 6, placements — 32. For creating ITO: rock — 6, ice — 2, bolt — 4, placements — 4. Number of climbing hours — 25 h 30 min. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs:

• — first — on the saddle under the S. ridge (satisfactory);
• — second — on the wall (narrow shelves for 1–2 people);
• — third — when exiting to the ridge (platform for a tent). Surname, first name, patronymic of participants and their qualification:
• — Stavnitscer A.M. Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor — leader
• — Samoded A.A. Master of Sports, instructor — participant

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir; ridge: North-Shugnan.
3. Peak: 40 years of Chelyabinsk Polytechnic Institute named after Lenin Komsomol; height: 5070 m; ascent route: along the northern ridge.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 2nd cat. diff. — 570 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 105 m, 4th cat. diff. — 35 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Estimated difficulty category of the route: 3A, 25 combined.
6. Pitons driven:

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: South-West Pamir, North Shugnan ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route:
   • 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta;
   • 5070 m;
   • along the W ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B, comb.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 670 m;
   • average steepness — 35°;

3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 4800 m via N wall 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 950 m, length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 505 m; 5th cat. diff. — 275 m; 6th cat. diff. — 318 m. Average steepness of the route 71°, steepness of the defining part (sections R1 + R16) — 78°.

Pitons hammered in

For belaying: rock — 82, ice (into rocks) — 22, bolt — 8, placed — 37. For creating ITO (Intermediate Technical Objects):

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 4900 VIA THE EAST RIDGE

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR

NORTHERN SHUGNAN RANGE a/l "VARZOB" Leader: KOSTRICHENKO V.V. Participants: VESELOV A.N. NICHIPORENKO A.N. TRONOV Y.N. BELINSKY S.F. SENTSOV S.K.

1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1