Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

64. LVO via the East Ridge

Photo #5. Section R2–R3. Shooting point Ф5. Photo #7. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф7. Photo #6. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф6. Photo #8. Beginning of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф8. Photo #9. Upper part of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф9. Photo #10. On section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф10. Photo #11. Section R5–R6. Shooting point Ф11. Photo #12. Beginning of section R6–R7. Shooting point Ф12.

48. Osh Zapadnaya via South Ridge.

Ascents to the summit of Pervomayskaya (4064 m). 15. From the south via the Kurgan pass

The summit is located in the Kyzylkiya ridge in the Mazarsay tract approximately 65–70 km from the city of Osh. It is convenient to set up a base camp under the Mazar mountain. The location is suitable for camping, with available firewood and water. The Pervomayskaya summit is located east of the base camp. The summit is composed of loose, heavily weathered rocks. The first ascent to the Pervomayskaya summit was made on April 29, 1959, by a group of climbers from Osh consisting of NAUMENKO I.M. — leader, 1st sports category, BURYAK V.A. — 1st sports category, and holders of the "Alpinist of the USSR" badge: MAMATOV G., MADRAKHIMOV T., YUDINA V., SOKOLOVA S., YAROSHENKO V. The movement goes in the direction of the Kok-Bel pass. We crossed a number of spurs covered with deep snow and gullies. The slope gradually becomes steeper and avalanche-prone. We move up with variable insurance via ice axes to the pass. Here we build a cairn. Further, we head west, traversing the slope of the Pervomayskaya summit. We reach a steep, wide snow couloir with rocky outcrops. Here we insure via ledges and ice axes. Before the summit:

• we reach rocks of moderate difficulty, which we traverse to the right with a gradual gain in height;

Fig. 11. Pervomayskaya from the south-west

Studencheskaya

Sudencheskaya (4152 m) is a solitary, inconspicuous peak located in a short southern spur of the Northern Kichik-Llaysky ridge behind the Tookomo scree pass. The ridges of the peak descend to the west and east parallel to the Northern ridge, forming rising cirques beneath it. Only pioneers have reached the summit: M. Toktobaev, R. Agileva, V. Klishevich, A. Kursky, E. Penkova, E. Pervasheva, who ascended the peak on May 1, 1962, from the Tookomo pass. 39. Studencheskaya from the north via the Western ridge couloir The route is combined, category 2A (fig. 5, 8, 46, 4Ya). Length — 400 m, time — 6–7 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people):

• Cross the bridge over the Kurgan river and ascend along the road on the left slope of the Kurgan gorge.
• Having passed the juniper forest, approach the green cape — a hill in the center of the gorge.

97. Suychikty via North Buttress of the West Ridge. The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 87, 95, 99). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. The approach path from "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the first terminal moraine of the Beketty valley, above its fork, see route 91. From the initial bivouac, turn left and ascend the grassy slope to the left of a rocky outcrop. Above the outcrop, turn right and approach the North Buttress of Suychikty’s West Ridge via possible snowy scree. About 1 hour from the initial bivouac. From here, ascend easy broken rocks and scree on the gradually narrowing North Buttress for 300–400 meters under the West Ridge’s gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via simple rocks on the left side (belaying), and reach the West Ridge behind it. On the ridge, turn left and ascend easy broken rocks on a gentle 250–300-meter West Ridge to the summit of Suychikty. 2–2.5 hours from the start of the buttress.

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

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