Activity Feed

Description of a 5B category difficulty route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the left counterfort from the Stalin Glacier, climbed by a team of climbers in 1987.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude class
  2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range
  3. Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the left counterfort from Stalin Glacier
  4. Proposed – category 5B difficulty, first ascent
  5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length – 5300 m Rock section elevation gain 1780 m, length of rock section – 2320 m Length of grade 5–6 sections – 540 m Average steepness of the rock section – 51°
  6. Pitons used: rock 94, chocks 85, ice screws 16
0
0

Ascent of Chochia P.A.'s team to Peak Communisma via the Northwest Wall, first ascent, category 6B difficulty.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude class
  2. Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range
  3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, from Walter Glacier through the ice barrier and along the left part of the northwest wall.
  4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. p. 4.1.
  5. Height difference - 2770 m (4400–7170 m), length - 3985 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 54°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty - 1530 m. Average steepness of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty - 66°.
  6. Pitons driven: | rock | placements | ice | | :--: | :--------: | :-: | | 149 | 64 | 198 |
0
0

Report on the ascent by the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports to Peak Kommunizma via Peak 6701 in 1971.

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Protocol No. 339 dated 12.8.71 5B first ascent - not considered (revised) 90 5190 m Before him - the path of the group (tse) - and "Burevestnik" (Dobrovolsky's)

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA FROM VALTER GLACIER VIA PEAK "6701" WITH A CLIMB ALONG THE COUNTERFORT, DECLARED FOR THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1971 SEASON. Team of the Krasnoyarsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Regional Executive Committee. July-August 1971. Team captain V. Bezzubkin

0
0

Description of the traverse peak Communism - peak Khokhlov via the NE counterfort from the Walter Glacier, difficulty category 6A, first ascent in 1990.

Passport

  1. Altitude class
  2. Central Pamir, Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ranges.
  3. Traverse of Peak Xoxlova – Peak Kommunizma via the right NE buttress from the Balthazar Glacier.
  4. First ascent, approximately 6A cat. dif.
  5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length of the main part 1520 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 315 m. Average steepness of the main route: 57°, including 160 m of 6 cat. dif.
  6. Pitons driven: Rock — 134, chocks — 53, ice screws — 51, bolt pitons — 0
  7. Team's total climbing hours: 46 hours and 4 days.
  8. Overnight camps: 1st — a platform built from stones on a rock shelf, 2nd — a platform carved in a snowy ridge, 3rd — a snow depression on a plateau. All overnight camps were lying-down bivouacs.
0
0

Ascent of Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskoi via the northeast buttress, first ascent, 5B complexity category.

Peak Korzhenevskoi via NE ridge Leader: Sivtsov B. 1968 Received on October 3 Date of mailing from Donetsk by post September 28, 1968

0
0

Report on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the team of the Central Sports Council of the All-Union Voluntary Sports Society (SDSO) “Burevestnik” in 1966.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Report

on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" team Team Captain /V. Tsetlin/ Coach /V. Smit/ Moscow, 1966 Fig. 2. Scheme of ascent to Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The scheme indicates the sections shown on the profile map.

0
0

The first ascent of the east wall of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by Odessa climbers in 1976 as part of the USSR Climbing Championship.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

0
0

Report on the first ascent of Category 5B route on Peak Korzhenevskaya via the R10-R3 ridge in the Central Pamir in 1984.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude class
  2. Central Pamir
  3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
  4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
  6. Pitons used: rock 23/0
0
0

First ascent via the West face of Peak Korzhenevskaya in the Central Pamir along the "triangle" of 5B difficulty category.

Passport

  1. Altitude class
  2. Central Pamir
  3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
  4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
  5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
0
0

Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

0
0
Showing 241–250 of 3670 results