Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — wall climb
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Muzkol Ridge
3. Peak 5660 via NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B, first ascent
5. Height difference — 960 m Of which:

• wall — 800 m
• length — 1075 m
• length of wall section — 875 m

Peak Agamal 5553 m (first ascent) Muzkol Pamir, Tajikistan

Creator: Judyta Tadeusz Dzięgielewski, e-mail: jtdziegielewski@gmail.com, photos: Judyta Tadeusz Dzięgielewski (JTD), Jerzy Kędra (JK)

Basic Information

Location: Tajikistan, Muzkol Pamir, peak 5553 m (according to Soviet military maps), north face, 38° 32′ 12.0″ N 73° 28′ 28.5″ E Climbing dates: 4–5 September 2019 Expedition dates: 10 August – 24 September 2019 (car trip through Central Asia[^1]) Climbers: Jerzy Kędra, Judyta Tadeusz Dzięgielewski (Poland) Difficulties: 3A/3B (Russian grade), D (alpine grade), WI 2/3 (hard ice[^2], 40–60 degrees, a few short passages up to 70–80 degrees on the ridge), about 20 rope lengths (height about 1100 m, elevation gain about 650 m), including 3–4 lengths of simultaneous climbing. Descent: via the same route with belaying and rappelling from Abalakov stations. The peak caught my attention two years ago when I photographed it near the Ak-Baital pass on the Pamir Highway. Like most peaks in this area, it is not very high and lies in a region rarely visited by climbers—the Muzkol Pamir. Moreover, it is located in a remote area, not in the main regions of interest to climbers, in the southeastern part of the North Muzkol range, west of the Ak-Baital valley. I reviewed all available literature, including Russian-language sources, for any information on possible ascents or attempts. I also searched the internet. I corresponded with Vladimir Biryukov, a well-known researcher, geographer, and cartographer living in Kyrgyzstan, one of the main authors of the Soviet military maps of the Pamir and Tian Shan. It turned out that the mountain was (with 99% probability—"you never know") still "virgin," previously unclimbed[^3]. I shared this with an old friend, and we began our journey through Central Asia. After three weeks of wandering, we ended up in the Ak-Baital river valley.

1. Class of ascent

• Altitude-technical;

2. Region of ascent

• North-West Pamir, Petra Pervogo Ridge;

3. Peak, its height, route

• peak Evgenia Abalakova, 6446 m via the north face;

4. Estimated difficulty category

• Sixth;

5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 2300 m;

1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
   • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
   • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
   • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
5. PITS SET:
   • ROCK PITS — 173
   • ICE PITS — 51

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |

497

of 30.09.80, 5B cat., semi-circular traverse.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technically challenging
2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE: Pamir, Peter I Ridge
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Unnamed, 5730 m, North-East wall, counterfort
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6B cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference: 2130 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Peter I ridge
3. Summit: peak Agasis, 5730 m, counterfort of the north-eastern wall
4. Complexity category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 2200 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 1700 m
   • average steepness: 75°

"PEAK ARMENIA" height 5495 m. "Kurayshapak" ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I Range, PAMIR. REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN. Chairman of the FAS Donetsk region Kovalev S.V. 6.06.2005.

Ascent Passport. Table № 1

1. Country, Mountain System: Republic of Tajikistan, Pamir.
2. Ascent Class: High-altitude.

Ascent

to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”

Central Pamir, 1972

Map of the area

From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much. The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).

Brief characteristics of the area

The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to: