Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak Engel'sa via the north-eastern wall

1. Kustovsky A.A.
2. Kletsko K.B.
3. Cherevko V.L.
4. Shalaev G.I.
5. Yakovenko Yu.K.
6. Yakovina V.A. 1964

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Shahdara Range, Darshai valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5288 (proposed name — Peak Academician Ivanov V.E.), via the North face of the Eastern counterfort.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent.
5. Height difference from the base of the wall — 938 m.
6. Average steepness — 65°.
7. Total route length — 1480 m.
8. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 870 m.
9. Pitons hammered: rock — 35, ice — 89, total — 124.

Ascent Log

I. Climb category — high-altitude technical. 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route —

• Peak 5300 m via the right western spur.

4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average slope — 4°, length of sections: I 60 m; II 80 m; III 50 m; IV 200 m; V 50 m; VI 300 m; VII 40 m; VIII 300 m; IX 200 m; X 400 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating belay stations. rock — 9 ice — 0

Ascent Passport

1. Category — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Nespár gorge.
3. Peak 5400 via the South-East wall of the East counterfort.
4. Proposed 5A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Route height difference — 540 m, including 300 m of wall section. Route length — 740 m, sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 195 m. Average route slope — 50°, wall section — 75°.
6. Pitons driven: rock placed pitons threaded ice 21 48/9

Ascent Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vahan Range, Vnukut gorge.
3. Peak 5649 m (Academician Kazimieras Baršauskas) via the North ridge.
4. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, combined, first ascent.
5. Height difference: length: Length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 80 m. Average steepness of main rock sections — 75°, average steepness of ice sections 40–45°.
6. Pitons hammered: Rock — 3, ice — 21, chocks — 5.
7. Travel hours from base camp — 1 hour.
8. Overnights: 1 — under the glacier on a grassy area.

I. Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Vychuk-Dara valley.
3. Peak — "5200" peak via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1360 m;
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 666 m; including 6th category — 82 m;

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4

Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks:

• Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m),
• Peak October Revolution (6974 m),
• Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — High-altitude 2. Ascent Region — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the center of the NNW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — sixth 5. Route characteristics — height difference: wall — 140 m, route — 1674 m; average wall steepness — 63°; section lengths:

• III — 1200 m,
• IV — 320 m,

PASSPORT

1. Class — technical;
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
3. Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
4. Cat. diff. — 5B;
5. Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
6. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |