MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To V. 3984 m. Working name — Pik Sokolovoy (Sokolova) Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′42.23″ N. 43°15′46.61″ E) via the Western ridge First ascent presumably 3A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. — Galimzyanov T.R.

Dedicated to Ekaterina Sokolova (1984–2014)

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team

To the peak Dragon (3570 m)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′37.87″ N, 43°17′10.62″ E) via the western ridge. First ascent. Presumably 3B category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Galimzyanov Timur Ravilievich. 2nd sports category Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, Leninsky pr-t, 35, apt. 33.

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
6. Number of driven pitons:
   • rock: 3
   • ice: 1
   • bolt: –

Ascent Passport. I. Route is combined (K) 2. 2.96 mountains of Dagestan (East. Caucasus) 3. Ascent to the peak Babaku, 3997 m via ridge 10 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: — length — 900 m — total elevation gain — 790 m — average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons were not used 7. The route was completed without intermediate bivouacs

Ascent Passport

1. The route is combined
2. 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (2.9 East Caucasus)
3. Ascent to Mt. Bali-al (4007 m) via the Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Proposed category – 1B, reg. No 548, 4.7. 16/4–85
5. Route characteristics:

• length – 810 m
• total elevation gain – approx. 550 m
• average steepness – 35°
• length of categorized sections:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent (traverse) class
2. Ascent area
3. Peak, height, ascent route Combined, # 2.9 (East Caucasus), 4116 Bochek/4040/S. Gadzhieva/3812, traverse from the southwest.
4. Proposed difficulty category 3B
5. Route characteristics Elevation gain 1100 m, length of sections:

Bichuga Malaz

2.10.27 2.9А.46. 21

Brief Characteristics of the Summit

Peak 3900 m in the western spur of the Bogossky ridge. This spur branches off from the watershed in the area of peak S. Gadzhiev, peak 3900, peak Serazhutdin Gadzhiev, Bochek, and peak Magomed Gadzhiev, forming a horseshoe that borders the Bichuga glacier. Peak 3902 is an almost perfect pyramid composed of sandstone and shale. A route to peak S. Gadzhiev via peak 3902 was established in October 1981. When describing this route, as well as the Bochek — S. Gadzhiev — 3800 traverse, an inaccuracy was made in determining the height of this peak. Determining the height using topographic map contours made it possible to clarify the peak's height — 3900 m.

Description of the Approach to the Base Camp

From the village of Khonokh in the TsUMADINSKY district of the Dagestan ASSR, located 50 km from the regional center Agvali, go left towards the farm in the direction of the characteristic rock "gates". Before reaching them, cross the river and ascend along the trail to a small pine grove. Continue along the trail, which makes a steep ascent in a serpentine manner up the grassy slope, to reach a koshar (2 hours from Khonokh). The trail traverses the slope with a slight gain in height in the direction of the confluence of the Bichuga and Tinav-chegelatly rivers. From the stream that has cut a deep and narrow canyon into the rocky bed, turn left, cross a clearing, and, moving along the rocky slabs, reach the trail leading to the second — "upper" koshar (1–1.5 hours from the lower koshar). Here, you can set up a camp — there are convenient clearings and water.

Description of the Approach to the Route and the Route

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: № 2.9 (East Caucasus) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Bodonay 4049 m, via the northeast ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 5. Route characteristics: — elevation gain 600 m — average steepness 40° — section lengths: R1 — 300 m, R2 — 600 m, R3 — 50 m 6. Pitons driven: rock: —

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.