Report

On the first ascent of the peak Nevidimka (4686 m) via the SW ridge through the 4607 m pass, category 1B-2A, by the Asia Outdoor guide team on July 29, 2023.

2023 I. Climbing Report Form

Peak Beleuli 6065 m. Via the north face and east ridge — second ascent

(Route by MAI (MAI) tourist club, led by A. Lebedev, cat. 4B) Peak Beleuli (6065) was one of the last unclimbed "six-thousander" peaks in the Pamir region until 2001. It is the highest point in the Zulumart-Saukdara mountain node. Located in the Saukdara ridge. It has two peaks:

• The eastern peak is about 5950 m, with a rock wall dropping to the east;
• The higher western peak is 6065 m. Between the peaks lies a plateau, from which a steep ice fall descends to the north. (From A. Lebedev's report.) View of Peak Beleuli and the ascent route from the North Zulumart glacier.

Contents

1. Route Passport — 4

The ascent of Peak Volodarsky (5567 m), Baigashka region, was made by a group working as part of the High-Altitude Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The goal of the expedition was to traverse p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya; among the acclimatization exits was an exit to the area of l. Volodarsky. From l. Volodarsky, ascents are possible to:

• p. Uritsky,
• p. Frunze,
• p. "5757",
• p. Volodarsky. Mostly, these routes are undoubtedly routes of the highest category of difficulty, however, on p. Volodarsky, an ascent along the northern ridge is possible, which is simpler. The route is combined — a 300 m rocky edge is of certain technical interest, and the further path along the ridge gives an idea of the nature of snow at high altitudes in this region. The ascent was made by a group consisting of: | Shumilov O. I. (leader) | 1st sports category | | :-------------------: | :-------------: |

Ascent via the Eastern ridge from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Descent to the Profsoyuzov Pass. Cat. 4A

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp, located at an altitude of 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier, on the right (orographic) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of the Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai River. Shortly before the glacier, which flows from the Profsoyuzov Pass, one must ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. The tongue of the glacier, descending from the Profsoyuzov Pass, must be crossed in a rope team with simultaneous belay. The same path is used to cross two more glaciers, which descend from the Zulumart ridge towards the Oktyabrsky glacier. The glaciers are covered with soggy snow and have many hidden crevasses. Under the eastern ridge of peak "6146" on the moraine is a suitable place for a bivouac.

27

Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

Nartoscheme Vezdara

10–3 Pamir

scale 1 cm — 2 km

4980

2nd Ascent

Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.

TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:

• Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
• I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")