CAUCASUS CHAMPIONSHIP 1986

Rock Climbing Class

Via the right buttress of the East wall

First Ascent

Category 5B difficulty (approximate)

USAB "Baksan" Team

The Dolra-Khevai ridge is located in the Elbrus group of peaks of the Caucasus in Upper Svaneti and forms part of the watershed between the valleys of the Angur, Dolra, and Nakra rivers. It stretches almost parallel to the Main Ridge south of the Dolguz-Orun peak and lies isolated on a spur between the Dolra and Kvich glaciers. The Dolra-Khevai ridge can be divided into the following three parts:

• the Dolra massif with the Eastern and Western - Main peaks (3860 m)
• the Trident massif with the Eastern - Pik Chetyrekh, Central, and Western peaks
• the Khevai massif with the Eastern and Western peaks. In the summer sports season of 1964, a team of climbers from the Odessa gatherings, consisting of:

1. LIVSHITS Viktor Yakovlevich - team leader, Master of Sports with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
2. BANDUROVSKY Igor Alexandrovich - participant, Master of Sports, with experience of climbing 15 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty
3. SHATILOV Vadim Mikhailovich - participant, 1st sports category, with experience of climbing 5 peaks of the 5th category of difficulty

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).

1. The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M. July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:

• 1. Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
• 2. Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
• 3. Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
• 4. Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category

2. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.

DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.

Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975

Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:

• Eastern
• South-Eastern
• Northern
• South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
• via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

Report on the Ascent in the Area

of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:

• SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
• KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
• KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
• PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
• MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
• AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

104

Central Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society

"Krasnaya Zvezda" Alpine Camp

Report

on the first ascent of the Northwest wall of Kara-Kaya Main peak (approximately category 6B) Team members:

• USSR Master of Sports Andreev R.N. - team leader
• Assorov A.V. - participant
• Shkrabkin A.S. - participant

Ascent Record

1. Ascent level — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya, 3500 m, via the northwest ridge
4. Category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference 800 m, average slope 40–45 degrees
6. Total climbing hours — 16–18
7. Overnight stay — on Hokkel Glacier
8. Group composition:

ASCENT OF MALAYA NAKHAZHBITA

Geographical Characteristics of the Region

The Malaya Nakhazhbita peak is located in one of the most beautiful corners of the Caucasus, in the Irafsky District of the North Ossetian ASSR. If you travel along the Urukh River valley, after gardens and stanitsas with dusty roads, after treeless, smoothed by time and greenery foothills, after dark Ossetian ancestral towers of the Akhsau, Moska, and Stur-Digora settlements, the peaks of the Suvansky Ridge suddenly emerge. The Suvansky Ridge is located parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge, but the former is higher and more powerful than the latter. For example, the most beautiful and highest peak of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Laboda, has a height of 4314 m, while Suvan is 4490 m, Glavnaya Nakhazhbita is 4405 m, and so on. Malaya Nakhazhbita (4225 m) is located in the middle of the Suvansky crest, to the west of Glavnaya Nakhazhbita; according to the first ascenders, it is one of the most beautiful peaks of the crest, with a logical and technically interesting route. The group was advised and cleared for the ascent by the authorized master of sports Boris Ryazhsky, a first ascender of this peak, who provided valuable advice on:

• the route;
• equipment. A brief description of the route according to the consultation: the route is combined, with a semi-closed broken glacier at the bottom, a snow-ice couloir leading to the crest. The lower part of the crest is heavily destroyed and rockfall-prone, followed by a wall with a single vertical crack and then a crest of monolithic blocks with small walls (5-3 m) going all the way to the summit. The descent is via route 2A cat. sl., the main difficulty of which lies in the icy ridge (8-10 ropes) from the saddle to the glacier.