USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION.

Report

ON THE ASCENT OF V. DVONYASHKA WEST VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE. CATEGORY 5B. SECOND ASCENT RSFSR TEAM 650, 1050 gr., 500, 79°, 58 vsk, 18 sm, 1/2, 2/6, 88 zam. 21 hours, 2 days. Balkin S.G., Baezin V.V., Bogachev A.V., Bogomaz V.V., Zakharov N.N., Chentsov S.V. (Kr-n) February 6-7, 1983.

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Dolomit (3710 m) via the southwest face — Category 3B difficulty From the bivouac near Dolomit Lake, ascend via talus to the base of the face, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the face. Below them lies an outwash cone, and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the face is very steep, so after the talus outwash, move left onto a ledge. The alternating traverse from the first to the second and then to the third ledge is done via internal rock corners (Belay!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the third ledge, cross the couloir and continue upward along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here resemble "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible. (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and continue up it to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging). Ascend via the rocks on the right side of the couloir to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be climbed with a boost) and continue 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, cross it, and then move right into the second couloir. Traverse right and upward through the couloir to the ledges. Ascend the ledges to the second stream (Belay!) and continue up along it via rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!) to a wide talus ledge. From the base of the face — 5 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
2. Name of the peak: Dalar via the left part of the N wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of complexity (Snesarev — Shopin combination)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 950 m. Route length — 1200 m. Length of sections:
   • 5th cat. diff. – 415 m
   • 6th cat. diff. – 280 m

Dalar

via the north wall of the bastion with exit to the summit along the eastern edge Team of MGS "SPARTAK" Coach and head MS USSR Kavunenko V.D.

Reconnaissance of the wall

The first acquaintance with the wall took place through photographs from different sides and detailed consultations. However, this allowed only a general impression to be formed. Therefore, one of the very important tasks was a detailed study of the wall. The first reconnaissance exit to the wall took place on June 15, 1964. The wall of the bastion is composed of gray granites, with an average steepness of 75°, and the wall's length is about 500 m. The first observations showed:

• Passing the wall directly along the corner would require a lot of piton work (150–200 m) without a combination with free climbing.
• A few tens of meters to the east (40–60 m), a logical exit was noted along a crack going vertically upwards to the upper part of the bastion, where a combination of free climbing with the need to use artificial support points is possible. From the upper part of the bastion to the eastern ridge of the pre-summit tower of Dalar leads a single snow-ice ridge.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge
3. Dolomit Severny peak via the central bastion of the western wall
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 607 m, length — 698 m. Length of sections 5 — 248 m. Average steepness of main sections — 78°, including 5 — 80°.
6. Pitons driven: — rock: 5

To the Classification Commission of the Russian Alpine Federation.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus. Uzunkol. 2.3.
2. Dolomity (C) 3748 m, via the center of the bastion of the 3rd wall, through the "reddish corner".
3. Claimed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character - rock climbing.
5. Total height difference of the route - 690 m, lower bastion - 280 m. Section lengths:

• 5B category of difficulty - 310 m
• 6B category of difficulty - 80 m

Report

On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008

Contents

Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

Report

On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

Report on the First Ascent to v. Zamok from the Northwest (Training Gathering of the Central Council of the LOKOMOTIV Sports Society)

Southeast Ridge of v. Zamok

(View from v. Burevestnik) View of v. Zamok from the ridge of v. Dolomit. The route of the first ascent to v. Zamok from the northwest wall.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Kirpich peak 3744 m, right part of the Western wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 850 m
6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 32 pcs.
   • bolt pitons — 0
   • ice pitons — 0