7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite) Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary. Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices! The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point. From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs. Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy);

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, range — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Teke, 3870 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1–5, average steepness in degrees. 900 m, I–700 m, II–200 m, 35°.
6. Number of pitons used for belaying to create artificial holds: Rock — 6 Ice — 2 Bolt —

7.14.17

Mt. Teke (3870 m)

(via the left, eastern edge — cat. 3A) (from the "Nefertiti" campsite — 2866 m) From the "Nefertiti" campsite, cross the stream to the other side and begin ascending via a wide couloir between the massive rocky edges of the massif. A prominent gendarme in the upper part of the edge, resembling the walls of the "Bastille" fortress, serves as a landmark. This edge remains to the right of our couloir. The ascent up the snowy (and later, debris-covered) couloir takes about 2.5 hours. Past a rocky outcrop in the middle of the couloir, with 15-meter walls and forming a shoulder at the top, ascend 200–250 m up the slope to reach the ridge at the level of the gendarme — a tower of very regular shape. This marks the beginning of the route. All gendarmes and rocky walls encountered along the ridge can generally be bypassed on the left.

• Movement along the left part of the ridge is via rocky ledges, with intermittent belaying; the difficulty of the sections is cat. II–III, up to 200–220 m.
• In the final third of the route, there is a 40-m ascent onto a gendarme via cat. III rocks.
• This is followed by a descent onto a 2–3 m wide, 30-m long saddle with a depth of up to 10–12 m. Snow cornices overhang. Belaying is thorough.
• From this point begins a fairly steep snowy ascent with individual rocky outcrops, stretching up to 100 m, with an initial slope of 45° increasing to 75°. Belaying is via ice axe, and later via pitons. The entire rocky cliff of the pre-summit triangle remains to the left.

4.14.18 24

Ascent description to Peak 4011 m (35 let Pobedy) via the northern ridge, cat. 1B (first ascent)

Peak 4011 m is situated south of the Teke ridge (3370 m) in the same mountain range. From the “Nefertiti” bivouac, go up the gorge towards the visible Alpish-at peak (40 horses) — 40 min. A wide stony couloir with snow patches descends to this point of the gorge from the right (sey) from the cirque of the eastern slopes of Peak 4011 and the southern ridge of Teke. Climb up, better to stick to the right side — 1 h. Exit to the cirque, to its right part. Altitude 3300 m. From here, a steep snowy couloir (up to 30°) is clearly visible, leading to the southern ridge of Teke. The ascent up to the ridge (altitude 3730 m) takes 1–1.5 h. Here it is necessary to:

Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge.
2. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 5A (third ascent).
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m).
6. Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

Ascent Log

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06
2. Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.
3. Category 5A, second ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope
   • Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Report

On the First Ascent of Kremen Peak (4351 m)

via the Western Ridge, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak Name: Kremen (4351 m, N 40°54.604′, E 74°39.295′ (WGS 84))
3. Route Name: via the Western Ridge
4. Category of Difficulty: proposed 4A
5. Route Type: rock climbing
6. Route Elevation Gain: 540 m (GPS reading). Route Length: 700 m. Average Steepness: 51°. Climbing difficulty mainly III–IV, crux at the 2nd rope VI–/VI (UIAA)

Pas­port of as­cent to Jel Teger­men peak 4570 m.

1. Tian-Shan, Cen­tral part of At-Ba­shi range, Bos­kur­bu tract. Ab­sent in clas­si­fi­ca­tor.
2. Jel Teger­men — 4570 m. Via West­ern couloir and then along South­ern ridge.
3. Pro­posed 3B cat. dif. First as­cent.
4. Com­bined route
5. Height dif­fer­ence — 520 m ac­cord­ing to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sec­tions:

• 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 de­grees
• 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 de­grees

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Kollektor Ridge — spur of the Alay Ridge.
3. Peak 4450 m. As proposed by the first ascenders, it was named Peak Arzanov in honor of Albert Ishkhanovich Arzanov, the first head of the training department at the "Dugobi" alpine camp. The route follows the right edge of the western slope.
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 950 m Average steepness — 45° Route length — 1200 m
6. Total climbing hours — 9430 min

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

Climbing Report Form